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LEAF in Accident -Brentwood, TN 37027

July 4, 2018, 12:22 am
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by CWO4Mann (Posted Wed, 04 Jul 2018 14:22:23 GMT+7)
I just heard over my police monitor radio that a 3-car wreck occurred in a very busy intersection here in Brentwood. The police on scene reported that 3 vehicles were involved, all required towing and several people had injuries. One was a LEAF, no further info. Let's hope all are OK.

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Official Tesla Model S thread

July 4, 2018, 3:15 am
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by SageBrush (Posted Wed, 04 Jul 2018 17:15:17 GMT+7)
A distorted echo of blogs and newspapers wrote about hearsay from the Aunt.
Only in a troll's world is that "facts."

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Electric Charge Cost

July 4, 2018, 5:20 am
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by alozzy (Posted Wed, 04 Jul 2018 19:20:06 GMT+7)
You've completely missed the point. I was giving him a methodology for comparing "fuel" costs between an EV and an ICE. The numbers are irrelevant in my examples, of course the OP has to adjust to his own use case.

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Just Took Delivery - What do You Wish You Knew When You Got Started...

July 4, 2018, 5:34 am
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by alozzy (Posted Wed, 04 Jul 2018 19:34:26 GMT+7)
To each his/her own...

I was a little unlucky in that, a few months after purchasing an EVSE, my local government introduced a rebate program that covers the first $750 (has to be installed by a qualified electrician) towards an EVSE. I would likely have purchased a hard wired, wall mounted EVSE under that program...

Having said that, a portable EVSE, that supports a wide range of supply voltages and with multiple amperage set points, is super nice. My family does lots of camping in the summer, so having the flexibility to charge at 120V, 208V, and 240V, and at max (safe) amperage levels based on that supply, is a huge benefit at RV parks. Even at home, I was able to install a NEMA 14-30R and use the 24A set point on the Zencar - something that few EVSEs offer.

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ELM327-type OBD Bluetooth devices for Android Apps

July 4, 2018, 6:24 am
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by lorenfb (Posted Wed, 04 Jul 2018 20:24:12 GMT+7)
HiLeaf wrote:I just purchased that exact one and have not been able to get it to work on my phone, Samsung Galaxy S7. I'm looking to purchase a used Leaf soon and I wanted to use LeafSpy Pro to evaluate vehicles. I've been trying to use the manufacturer's app and even that cannot connect to the unit. I'm working with the manufacturer to try and figure out what is going on.

Newporttom wrote:Just to make sure 100%

OK to buy this one for Android?

https://www.amazon.com/LELink-Bluetooth ... 1R2E19N4AF


Just tried on my S7 with a similar no-connect to LeafSpy, not having used LeafSpy on this phone. Not only must you turn-on BT,
but you need to get it in the pairing mode, i.e. a less obvious step with the S7. Besides sliding the BT switch, tap the BT function.
Try this with your PC to verify you have BT fully setup and pairing first.

Did you at least get the S7 to pair with the OBDII device? This is done before even starting the LeafSpy app.

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LEAFspy says Bad Cells?! :(

July 4, 2018, 7:45 am
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by SageBrush (Posted Wed, 04 Jul 2018 21:45:46 GMT+7)
If I am reading the numbers correctly, about 10% of range is lost due to the weak cells.
I have no idea what performance criteria Nissan uses before they agree that a battery is defective, and I am uncertain (but doubt) whether a weak cell will reduce the calculated Ahr capacity, and by extension, the battery capacity bar graph that Nissan uses for its degradation warranty.

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Abusive behavior and threats by moderators on MNL.

July 4, 2018, 8:06 am
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by mtndrew1 (Posted Wed, 04 Jul 2018 22:06:02 GMT+7)
Like Christmas in July.

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I made a transparent CAN bus bridge with logging, requesting input

July 4, 2018, 8:30 am
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by mux (Posted Wed, 04 Jul 2018 22:30:37 GMT+7)
For that you'd need the 4-CAN board (or, well, at least 3 CAN buses). One needs to talk transparently with the VCM and the other would need to be read and its capacity added to the other. It's a bit involved but could certainly be done. I'll see if I can put this kind of functionality in the release firmware.

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Post Your Battery Degradation Results

July 4, 2018, 12:15 pm
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by cwerdna (Posted Thu, 05 Jul 2018 02:15:45 GMT+7)
TLeaf13 wrote:Today LeafSpy is showing my 2013 has the following numbers:

37,098 miles
AHr 42.43
SOH 64.88%
Hx 56.73%
...

Yet the 4th bar hasn't dropped. I'm very worried that the car might be out of warranty too. I think it was originally purchased in March 2013. All my numbers are close, but slightly worse than what jasondNC posted whose car already lost the 4th bar. If Nissan considers mine out of warranty...

You should be able to figure out the original in-service date from Carfax or Autocheck, if you have it. Also, the Nissan service dept should be able to tell you.

You need to be down to 8 bars before the 5 year/60K capacity warranty expires (whichever comes first).

I found an earlier post of yours at viewtopic.php?p=509048#p509048. From how quickly you lost bars, you were almost certainly a victim of a BMS reset (like http://daveinolywa.blogspot.com/2014/11 ... -read.html). I don't know where you live so you either bought a 10 or 9 bar car, in actuality.

You probably also bought a defective KW-902 (warning at viewtopic.php?f=44&t=23776).

FWIW, my 5/2013 built '13 Leaf is still down only 1 bar (lost in late Nov 2017: viewtopic.php?p=511915#p511915) and showing these stats today.
AHr: 55.48
SOH: 84.65%
Hx: 80.55%
odo: 56,416 miles

I'm a hotter part of the SF Bay Area, but not the hottest. I've been doing what I can to baby the battery on most days. 4/2013 and later built '13 Leafs and presumably all '14 Leafs seem to be have better batteries.

I'm past my 5 year/60K capacity warranty now. I crossed the 5 year mark a few weeks ago. My stats are better than I expected as I don't think it was known that 4/2013+ batteries were better when I bought my Leaf used in July 2015.

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li-ion battery manufacturers for automotive applications

July 4, 2018, 12:39 pm
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Looking at certified pre-owned 2015 Leaf

July 4, 2018, 12:50 pm
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by cwerdna (Posted Thu, 05 Jul 2018 02:50:34 GMT+7)
Charviolon wrote:I am also looking at a 2014 Tessa S85 74k miles, in the mid $40k range. It is out of warranty, but it would be excellent for extended trips. Would you anticipate post-warranty problems in either car? Thanks.

You should budget for stuff like
- MCU: https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads ... nit.94391/
- half-shafts: https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads ... nty.93857/
- door handles: IIRC, they're at least $800 a piece to replace, unless you can perform the repairs yourself.

I would consider dumping it after its 8 year/unlimited mileage drive unit and battery pack warranty are over. I question Tesla's long-term durability and reliability testing (or it could be their manufacturing or validation of running changes). Oddly, https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads ... ing.56176/ is crickets. Some folks w/Model S are on their 7th or 8th drive unit (see https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads ... st-1603011, https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads ... st-1619754, and https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads ... st-1653580). Drive unit is the assembly that includes the motor, inverter and gearbox.

Be careful to look at people's prior posts if they claim their Model S (that has been several years) is very reliable or even "100% reliable" and "Model S is as good as it gets IMHO". You'll note that at https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads ... st-2788639, I pointed out the above 8th drive unit guy made those statements! Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view. :roll:

Although https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads ... der.74184/ is on the X, w/folks getting their half-shafts being replaced multiple times under warranty already + the number of folks who had trouble both the front doors and/or falcon wing doors (FWD) on the X, I think you can see why I raise the above questions.

Can you update your location info via your user name in the upper right > User Control Panel > Profile tab? That way, we don't need to ask in future posts/threads or do sleuthing to deduce it.

What are your daily driving needs in terms of miles? How much city vs. highway? Will you have the ability to charge at your work/destinations?

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2018 Leaf: How to Charge to 80% Only?

July 4, 2018, 2:23 pm
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by hyperionmark (Posted Thu, 05 Jul 2018 04:23:08 GMT+7)
For those just charging with 120v standard plug...I really recommend using a smart outlet. Make sure to get one rated for 15 amps. But it is much easier to set timers and a schedule on your phone than the controls in the car.

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Warning: Battery Replacement Cost Increase (now $8500)

July 4, 2018, 3:35 pm
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by garsh (Posted Thu, 05 Jul 2018 05:35:43 GMT+7)
My Leaf is starting to rust on the rocker panel just in front of the rear wheels. Between that, the battery degradation, and the cost of a replacement battery, I've decided that it's not worth fixing. I'll just keep it for my last 16yo kid to learn driving on, then scrap/donate it as it won't be worth anything after 2-3 more years.

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LEAFspy says Bad Cells?! :(

July 4, 2018, 4:36 pm
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by SageBrush (Posted Thu, 05 Jul 2018 06:36:09 GMT+7)
JPWhite wrote:[quote="SageBrush] and by extension, the battery capacity bar graph that Nissan uses for its degradation warranty.[/quote]

Bad cells (by Nissan's definition, whatever that is) is covered by the standard materials and workmanship warranty, not by the degradation warranty.[/quote][/quote]

Unless the bad cells lead to a "degradation" threshold. I tend to think they do not, at least at the level Mark showed.

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TSLA corporate outlook

July 4, 2018, 5:02 pm
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LEAFspy says Bad Cells?! :(

July 4, 2018, 6:38 pm
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by SageBrush (Posted Thu, 05 Jul 2018 08:38:38 GMT+7)
I also found the link Cwerdna posted to be very informative. I still don't know how he keeps track or remembers but he is a fantastic resource.

"It seems to me that with one module (two cell-pairs) replaced, the battery will have an EASIER time passing the CVLI test since a cell-pair would have to drop below the mean voltage by 1.5X the amount that those new cell-pairs exceed the average voltage. In other words, you will have to have quite a bit weaker cell in order to fail that test."

That would be the defective cell test:
Average - Min > (max - average) * 1.5

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2018 Leaf: How to Charge to 80% Only?

July 4, 2018, 6:44 pm
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by SageBrush (Posted Thu, 05 Jul 2018 08:44:12 GMT+7)
jjeff wrote:I believe the Tesla Model S's have an option where you can choose any SOC you want(within a range) do they still have that option and does the Model 3 have it? If so and Tesla can get away with it, why can't Nissan do something similar Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view. :?

Yep on the Tesla Model 3. The charge limit can be chosen in the car or by phone app. Very convenient.

Nissan *could* of course do something similar. They are keeping their R&D to an absolute minimum.

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Editing the Nav Stored Locations via SD Card

July 4, 2018, 7:34 pm
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by marxx (Posted Thu, 05 Jul 2018 09:34:37 GMT+7)
I went the extra mile and rewrote the page, so you can now enter latitudes and longitudes and then generate the storedlocation.slc directly online Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view. 8-) Even with a little openstreetmap implementation Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view. 8-)Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view. 8-)

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view. Image

Should work in any browser.

Greetinx

marxx

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Looking at certified pre-owned 2015 Leaf

July 4, 2018, 7:50 pm
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by Charviolon (Posted Thu, 05 Jul 2018 09:50:27 GMT+7)
City vs highway? It all depends, but I do not have huge distances to drive in any case. I can end up doing a lot of city driving, where regen would help tremendously. On many days it could be 50-75% local interstate miles.

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12V issues and replaceemnt recommendation

July 4, 2018, 8:06 pm
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by TXLeaf (Posted Thu, 05 Jul 2018 10:06:34 GMT+7)
We have a 2015 leaf. My wife tends to leave the door open often, and the 12V car battery went down. I jumped it using a home charger a couple of times and that seemed to keep it going, but this last time that didn't work. Charging it kept it going for a bit, but now it will reach the initial screen on charge but won't fully start. Called AAA last night. The tech said the battery was at 7.5 and that usually kicks in most cars and he didn't think it was a battery issue. he did not replace it, asked us to tow the car.

Wanted to get advice on whether to try to replace it, and with what product, where to purchase, and if I should take it to a Nissan certified leaf repairman to replace it. If so - any recommendatiosn in DFW? thank you

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