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Abusive behavior and threats by moderators on MNL.

July 4, 2018, 9:07 pm
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by SageBrush (Posted Thu, 05 Jul 2018 11:07:58 GMT+7)
The few posts that Ed writes that are LEAF specific can be informative*; it is the Tesla trolling I want to see stopped. If Ed cannot restrain himself from trolling then good riddance.

*credit where due, I think he was the first to advocate using charging as the best way to assess battery health. That has turned out to be quite prescient ever since the "update" Nissan is foisting on 30 kWh battery owners.

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DFW Metroplex

July 4, 2018, 9:11 pm
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by Stanton (Posted Thu, 05 Jul 2018 11:11:38 GMT+7)
TXLeaf wrote:Hi - our leaf is not starting properly. Tried jumping it and it was working, but now even with jump it does not kick start the car. Think it may be 12V battery issue but not sure. Need help with leaf repair experts in Dallas, hate going to dealerships but if e have to we will. Also anyrecommendations on this issue, should I just replace the 12V and if so what battery is recommended?


Answered your PM, but wanted to let everyone know that I highly recommend McKinney Nissan (on 75). They have a Leaf tech that's been there since I bought my Leaf (almost 7 years).

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Nissan Leaf Owners Claim Charging Times And Range Are Misleading

July 4, 2018, 9:34 pm
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by armmynissanleaf (Posted Thu, 05 Jul 2018 11:34:21 GMT+7)
Hi everyone. Have you seen this? The report is from the BBC and says Nissan Leaf owners in the UK are expressing their dissatisfaction with the actual verses the reported range of their BEVs. Some are reporting problems requiring the car to need a third rapid charge during the course of the day. Many feel that they’ve been mislead to request some kind of compensation, prospective buyers have canceled their sales contracts. Could the charging problem be happening also in the US?

There are 3 issues involved in this, reports Torque News. See the recommendations below.

See Nissan Leaf Owners: Beware of a Required Third Charge and if so, Call Nissan!


1. The discrepancy of the rapid charge time.
2. What is the actual range of the Leaf, and says who?
3. Long recharge times at rapid charging stations:

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Maintenance Vs Warranty

July 4, 2018, 9:46 pm
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by estomax (Posted Thu, 05 Jul 2018 11:46:30 GMT+7)
skip it. you don't need the dealer maintenance history for warranty purposes. I have not gone in for any work with my 2013, the cabin filter is reasonably easy to replace yourself and the brakes definitely don't need to be flushed any more than ICE cars, which in reasonable climate and use is every 5-10 years from my personal experience with no bad side effects.

the only thing that needs an eye kept on is the tires to keep them wearing evenly.. nothing else really wears from a preventative maintenance point of view.

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Maintenance Vs Warranty

July 4, 2018, 10:00 pm
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by SchneerLaterne (Posted Thu, 05 Jul 2018 12:00:17 GMT+7)
Thanks. So does anyone know, what DO you need for warranty purposes? I'll also get the battery check anyway, since the 12 and 24 month are covered.

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Maintenance Vs Warranty

July 4, 2018, 11:22 pm
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by SageBrush (Posted Thu, 05 Jul 2018 13:22:49 GMT+7)
The battery could be on it's last breath and dealer report would say wonderful.
If you enjoy hanging out at a car dealership, go for it. Otherwise complete waste of your time.

If you are in the US, nothing is required to keep your warranty.

My advice: rotate your tyres, change filters as needed. Avoid the dealer like the plague.

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Opened the traction battery and found the Pre-charge resistor was bad. What caused it to fail?

July 5, 2018, 12:00 am
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by braebyrn (Posted Thu, 05 Jul 2018 14:00:41 GMT+7)
Thanks Mux for your help in figuring out that the pre-charge resistor in the battery junction box was bad. Also a big thank you to the others that have contributed videos and forum discussions pertaining to opening the case and troubleshooting the issue discussed here viewtopic.php?t=21776

What caused it to fail? I followed the steps on the service manual by checking ohms on the heater, compressor, inverter, and opened the DC to DC junction box and checked the fuses and came up blank.

Now that the precharge resistor is replaced, I don't want to have to drop the battery again because I missed a bad/failing part that caused it to fail to begin with.

Original error codes C118C, C1A6E, C1A70, P3176, P311C,

C118C 0109 ABS EV/HEV System BRC-126
C1A6E 0109 BRAKE EV/HEV System BR-146
C1A70 0109 BRAKE Brake Control System BR-160

Below codes are the real issue...
P3176 00C0 EV/HEV Inverter Condenser EVC-238
P311C EV/HEV High Voltage Sys EVC-204

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12V issues and replaceemnt recommendation

July 5, 2018, 12:25 am
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by LeftieBiker (Posted Thu, 05 Jul 2018 14:25:01 GMT+7)
There are more than several topics on this. Get a 51R size AGM battery and it shouldn't happen again unless you keep the car plugged in for days after charging has ended, or you run it in accessory mode (always use Ready mode) for long periods.

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Looking at certified pre-owned 2015 Leaf

July 5, 2018, 12:26 am
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by LeftieBiker (Posted Thu, 05 Jul 2018 14:26:30 GMT+7)
The Leaf would work fine. You could rent or borrow another car for long trips. Buying a Tesla for short trips is not a good use of your money.

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Official Tesla Model 3 thread

July 5, 2018, 1:37 am
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by EVDRIVER (Posted Thu, 05 Jul 2018 15:37:49 GMT+7)
SageBrush wrote:
scottf200 wrote:FYI, IEV put out Tesla numbers. 24367 so far for the first 6 months

Not bad, but in a couple of months Tesla will be shipping 25k Model 3 a month and will be hard at work trying to figure out how to double that number within a year.



Perhaps, and hopefully not slapped together:)

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12V issues and replaceemnt recommendation

July 5, 2018, 2:15 am
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by Nubo (Posted Thu, 05 Jul 2018 16:15:20 GMT+7)
TXLeaf wrote:We have a 2015 leaf. My wife tends to leave the door open often, and the 12V car battery went down. I jumped it using a home charger a couple of times and that seemed to keep it going, but this last time that didn't work. Charging it kept it going for a bit, but now it will reach the initial screen on charge but won't fully start. Called AAA last night. The tech said the battery was at 7.5 and that usually kicks in most cars and he didn't think it was a battery issue. he did not replace it, asked us to tow the car.

Wanted to get advice on whether to try to replace it, and with what product, where to purchase, and if I should take it to a Nissan certified leaf repairman to replace it. If so - any recommendatiosn in DFW? thank you


7.5 volts is dead-flat for any 12V lead-acid battery.

As Leftie says, 51R is the correct size and terminal orientation and AGM type suits the car's behavior and has several advantages.

A Nissan tech is not required. As long as you have the right size and orientation (51R), replacement is straightforward; all you need is a 10mm wrench. If you're unfamiliar, there should be plenty of YouTube videos to show you how to do it safely. If you're still unsure, any shop can replace the 12V battery.

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TSLA corporate outlook

July 5, 2018, 2:24 am
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by Nubo (Posted Thu, 05 Jul 2018 16:24:07 GMT+7)
palmermd wrote:https://cleantechnica.com/2018/07/05/a-sinister-cellar-of-the-tsla-short-story/

Interesting article about why we see so much FUD being spread regarding Tesla.


Given the history of Tesla short-selling, the strategy seems to require an excess of testes and/or a shortage of neurons.

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I made a transparent CAN bus bridge with logging, requesting input

July 5, 2018, 3:45 am
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by alozzy (Posted Thu, 05 Jul 2018 17:45:06 GMT+7)
@mux Could you mod your transparent CAN bus bridge to intercept the CAN bus signals for battery charging, with the intent to spoof the stock BMS into thinking that the car is fully charged, when in fact it's at 80% SOC?

There seem to be so many post 2013 owners who want the 80% charging feature, so if you could create a reasonably priced device that would do that one thing, I'm sure you would have no shortage of customers.

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Mechanical Key RFID?

July 5, 2018, 3:50 am
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by sirpurrcival (Posted Thu, 05 Jul 2018 17:50:02 GMT+7)
So, I managed to lose my mechanical key from my fob last night. I have never used it for any reason. I talked to Nissan and they tell me that the mechanical key is RFID chipped an would cost $35.00 for the key and $75.00 for the programming. The thing is, my other Key fob has a mechanical key and other than get me in the door, it seems to do nothing in terms of starting the car. So I am questioning the chipped aspect of the mechanical key. I see many replacement mechanical key blanks on things like Amazon and Ebay for considerably less $$$. Most of them seem not to indicate that they are not chipped. So I guess the real question is whether or not the "mechanical" key is more than just a mechanical key. For example, if a non chipped replacement were to be used, with the door not open?

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Extra Battery, How to Integrate with 24kWh Traction Battery?

July 5, 2018, 4:07 am
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by rmay635703 (Posted Thu, 05 Jul 2018 18:07:35 GMT+7)
EVDRIVER wrote:LEAFs also don't end up being scrapped they in many cases go to auction and are shipped in very large numbers to Russia, Ukraine, the EU, etc. The export numbers are incredibly high for used LEAFs, one single private party alone ships many thousands of cars yearly.


This is what really sucks, historically this practice was all but impossible and it kept used cars cheap with plentiful parts.

But do to trade imbalance and empty supertankers we now export (in some cases) over 90% of specific models of junk cars.

It means getting a junk car is many times more expensive than buying one that runs.

It isn’t limited to leaf, it’s almost everything under 20 years old.

To me it almost needs a ban in place,
it means that the age of a cheap car is getting older every day and it has wide spanning consequences since folks on the low end are ending up further down the spectrum at a higher price.

It went from bad to worse during cash for junkers where many cars were exported,
now it’s just gotten crazy.

Ah well

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Abusive behavior and threats by moderators on MNL.

July 5, 2018, 4:11 am
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by jonathanfields4ever (Posted Thu, 05 Jul 2018 18:11:28 GMT+7)
Ed is over the top and silly, but he doesn’t throw around insults or flame people (as far as I have seen). He just wails hysterically about Tesla and makes overly grim predictions about their future as a company. How is he in trouble, while others who direct personal insults at those who disagree with them are not?

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SDG&E EV-TOU-5

July 5, 2018, 4:13 am
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by philip (Posted Thu, 05 Jul 2018 18:13:51 GMT+7)
Just a heads up that San Diego Gas & Electric has an new EV rate. This one has a $16 monthly charge in exchange for .09/kWh super off peak rates - and a very slight savings on the other time periods.

This is probably better than EV-TOU-2 if you don't have PV. As it only takes 115 kWh of super off peak power each month to come out ahead.

If you have PV, then you will have to do a bit of work to figure out if it works out or not since the $16 monthly charge isn't part of NET metering and doesn't buy you any energy (it isn't a minimum charge). So under the new tariff, you will pay $192/year before you pay for any energy versus paying $120/year for $120 worth of energy.

Also, if you are on grandfathered TOU time periods, you will lose that status if you switch. This rate only has the 4-9pm peak rate on the tariff - no grandfathered time periods. It may still be a better deal if you use a lot of super off peak power and have low usage in the evenings - this will need to also be weighed against the super off peak going into the afternoons on weekends (not good for PV credits).

http://regarchive.sdge.com/tm2/pdf/ELEC ... -TOU-5.pdf

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LEAF in Accident -Brentwood, TN 37027

July 5, 2018, 4:57 am
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by GlennD (Posted Thu, 05 Jul 2018 18:57:51 GMT+7)
YOU Need to be careful, You have a right to listen to the traffic buy you have no right 7o report it,

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Warning: Battery Replacement Cost Increase (now $8500)

July 5, 2018, 5:32 am
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by Usaverageguy (Posted Thu, 05 Jul 2018 19:32:27 GMT+7)
Strange, I was just quoted $7500 less a $1000 core deposit on my 24KWH battery pack. And there are several different prices quoted in this thread. I am going to check around. If the prices vary so much, perhaps I can get a better price by shipping it to Atlanta for the new battery pack. At any rate, the $5500 price is gone. Probably for good. Nissan is not helping their sales by screwing over the early adopters. Word will get out. :(

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Is Nissan Connect (Carwings) worth it?

July 5, 2018, 5:42 am
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by Silverfish (Posted Thu, 05 Jul 2018 19:42:54 GMT+7)
Leaf15 wrote:
How can I tell if my car's TCU has been upgraded? I've only had it for a couple of months. I do believe it's still sending info to Nissan, from the nag screen that appears when I turn the car on.

Visit https://owners.nissanusa.com/nowners/ and try to setup your car and try to enable Carwings /NissanConnect EV - it will tell you if you need your car unit upgraded.


Thanks, I'll try that.

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