↧
2013 Leaf bar loss.
↧
2013 Leaf Spy numbers, want to ensure I get a new battery
by SeasonsAfter (Posted Fri, 02 Feb 2018 15:23:14 GMT+7)
Numbers below in my signature line. Looks like my 9th bar will drop soon but not sure I can make that happen in 19 days left.
Good luck to all the 2013 nissan leaf owners on a battery replacement. Such a bummer that Nissan decided to end their goodwill program.
![:evil:]( "Evil or Very Mad")
Numbers below in my signature line. Looks like my 9th bar will drop soon but not sure I can make that happen in 19 days left.
Good luck to all the 2013 nissan leaf owners on a battery replacement. Such a bummer that Nissan decided to end their goodwill program.
↧
↧
What kind of range can I expect from this LEAF?
by Stanton (Posted Fri, 02 Feb 2018 15:38:29 GMT+7)
That's incredibly pessimistic! So much so that I have to provide a counter.
My 4BL Leaf (this car is on it's way to 2BL) didn't even perform that poorly.
Reddy wrote:Worst case: 20 mi in winter, 30 mi spring, 40 mi summer. In CO you should be able to add 10 mi to all of those easy. More miles in city driving (less than 45 mph) than highway.
That's incredibly pessimistic! So much so that I have to provide a counter.
My 4BL Leaf (this car is on it's way to 2BL) didn't even perform that poorly.
↧
iOS LeafSpy Pro Support
↧
60 miles daily roundtrip all year long
by specialgreen (Posted Fri, 02 Feb 2018 16:01:04 GMT+7)
If home charging is possible, but you'd just prefer to use the free power from work (and who wouldn't?), then you could try it, and if you find that you can't drive 60 miles on a charge in winter, then you're only out the cost of the power. Charging at home for 50% of the miles for 40% of the year, at 20k miles/year, would cost me about $300/year, where I live. Spending $3k extra on a newer Leaf, to save $300/year in power, would never break-even. Of course, a newer car is nicer than an older car, and if that $3k extra means that the Leaf lasts 2 more years before replacement, then it would be worth it.
If home charging is possible, but you'd just prefer to use the free power from work (and who wouldn't?), then you could try it, and if you find that you can't drive 60 miles on a charge in winter, then you're only out the cost of the power. Charging at home for 50% of the miles for 40% of the year, at 20k miles/year, would cost me about $300/year, where I live. Spending $3k extra on a newer Leaf, to save $300/year in power, would never break-even. Of course, a newer car is nicer than an older car, and if that $3k extra means that the Leaf lasts 2 more years before replacement, then it would be worth it.
↧
↧
Where are the 2018's?
↧
Official Tesla Model 3 thread
↧
60 miles daily roundtrip all year long
by IssacZachary (Posted Fri, 02 Feb 2018 16:58:01 GMT+7)
Let me put it this way. The 2011-2017 Leaf is a car designed for a normal daily commute of around 30 miles average. It will go farther, as much as double or more. But you don't want to be driving it to 1% to make it back home in the middle of nowhere. If you can charge every 30 miles any Leaf is probably going to work fine.
Let me put it this way. The 2011-2017 Leaf is a car designed for a normal daily commute of around 30 miles average. It will go farther, as much as double or more. But you don't want to be driving it to 1% to make it back home in the middle of nowhere. If you can charge every 30 miles any Leaf is probably going to work fine.
↧
Easiest way to activate an EVSE using passive components
↧
↧
Where are the 2018's?
↧
What kind of range can I expect from this LEAF?
by LeftieBiker (Posted Fri, 02 Feb 2018 17:57:16 GMT+7)
You do understand what "worst case" means, right? If we told people that because we get great range per bar then they will too, we wouldn't be helping them.
That's incredibly pessimistic! So much so that I have to provide a counter.
My 4BL Leaf (this car is on it's way to 2BL) didn't even perform that poorly.
You do understand what "worst case" means, right? If we told people that because we get great range per bar then they will too, we wouldn't be helping them.
↧
Good Will Program over--Lost 4th bar 10 days after warranty expired, Nissan: 'too bad'
by smkettner (Posted Fri, 02 Feb 2018 19:51:31 GMT+7)
Time for a road trip. You need to QC, drive, QC, drive..... until the battery temp is at the top of the gauge and limiting charge level. Parking in the sun will not do squat in 19 days. You have two weekends, good luck.SeasonsAfter wrote:My warranty is up in 19 days. Keeping my fingers crossed that I see that 4th bar drop. Forum gurus, any suggestions? I live in sunny San Diego and have been leaving the Leaf to bake in the sun at work. Top of the parking structure on the 7th floor!
↧
Good Will Program over--Lost 4th bar 10 days after warranty expired, Nissan: 'too bad'
by cwerdna (Posted Fri, 02 Feb 2018 20:15:34 GMT+7)
And, drive it like you stole it. While hot, you gotta do max acceleration and max regen repeatedly to keep that battery HOT!
Run the battery to near dead then QC to heat up the battery, drive till near dead, QC to heat, etc. You gotta be like this guy: https://web.archive.org/web/20170717073 ... hp?t=22134 where it's limiting his regen and acceleration.![:)]( "Smile")
If it's cooler outside at night than in your garage, don't leave it outside to cool. Maybe you can get someone else to do a QC, drive, etc. roadtrip when you can't.
There is a risk though that your SOH, Hx and AHr numbers will improve as a result of the QCing and fuller charge/discharge cycles... Hope the heat helps negate that. At this point, I don't think you have choice, if you're going to try to lose that 4th bar in time.
smkettner wrote:Time for a road trip. You need to QC, drive, QC, drive..... until the battery temp is at the top of the gauge and limiting charge level. Parking in the sun will not do squat in 19 days. You have two weekends, good luck.SeasonsAfter wrote:My warranty is up in 19 days. Keeping my fingers crossed that I see that 4th bar drop. Forum gurus, any suggestions? I live in sunny San Diego and have been leaving the Leaf to bake in the sun at work. Top of the parking structure on the 7th floor!
And, drive it like you stole it. While hot, you gotta do max acceleration and max regen repeatedly to keep that battery HOT!
Run the battery to near dead then QC to heat up the battery, drive till near dead, QC to heat, etc. You gotta be like this guy: https://web.archive.org/web/20170717073 ... hp?t=22134 where it's limiting his regen and acceleration.
If it's cooler outside at night than in your garage, don't leave it outside to cool. Maybe you can get someone else to do a QC, drive, etc. roadtrip when you can't.
There is a risk though that your SOH, Hx and AHr numbers will improve as a result of the QCing and fuller charge/discharge cycles... Hope the heat helps negate that. At this point, I don't think you have choice, if you're going to try to lose that 4th bar in time.
↧
↧
Toyota Mirai Fuel Cell
↧
Let's fix the LEAF acronym for Nissan!
↧
Good Will Program over--Lost 4th bar 10 days after warranty expired, Nissan: 'too bad'
by cwerdna (Posted Fri, 02 Feb 2018 23:26:49 GMT+7)
DOH! I didn't see his post about that.![:oops:]( "Embarrassed")
I was only responding to smkettner.
That might not be sufficient.![:(]( "Sad")
Hopefully the car can be operated almost 24/7, either charging (stop charging when the car ramps down to about 4.x kW or so so that more driving can be done) or high energy discharging/charging like highway or full acceleration up steep hills and then regen on the way down. Rinse and repeat. Even then, there might not be enough time. ![:(]( "Sad")
In hindsight, the OP should've sent his car for "heat treatment" in Phoenix or Vegas starting around May 2017 thru at least September or October. From forecasts, it still looks pretty hot in Palm Springs. Can it be shipped over there pronto and charged to 100% w/someone doing the above cycle?
Battery needs to be kept warm at night.
BuckMkII wrote:SeasonsAfter wrote:I wish my leaf had the quick charge port and I probably could have dropped by now.
He doesn't have a QC.
DOH! I didn't see his post about that.
I was only responding to smkettner. BuckMkII wrote:Do you know a retiree who would do you a favor of L2ing it for 90', driving a quick lap on a highway and topping it up again every day?
That might not be sufficient.
Hopefully the car can be operated almost 24/7, either charging (stop charging when the car ramps down to about 4.x kW or so so that more driving can be done) or high energy discharging/charging like highway or full acceleration up steep hills and then regen on the way down. Rinse and repeat. Even then, there might not be enough time. In hindsight, the OP should've sent his car for "heat treatment" in Phoenix or Vegas starting around May 2017 thru at least September or October. From forecasts, it still looks pretty hot in Palm Springs. Can it be shipped over there pronto and charged to 100% w/someone doing the above cycle?
Battery needs to be kept warm at night.
↧
Solutions to 12 Volt Batteries and Chargers Posted Here
by country5369 (Posted Fri, 02 Feb 2018 23:28:03 GMT+7)
2015 Leaf S 12k mi just acquired less than a month ago from coming off lease in Alabama, January 8 2018 "FAILURE FROM AUX BATTERY"
I do not know how long it had "sat" before they shipped it to Chattanooga but I picked it up from Dealer and they said "charged" and ready to go !!!
7 days later I went and visited a friend on Dayton Mountain when a cold spell blew in and the temperature dipped to single digit 2*, Due to it being the first time to pull the mountain I left home with a full charge. I had traveled 14 miles and used 1/2 the main battery. I had brought my main trickle charger and also a motorcycle battery tender I use on my BMW gel battery due to reading such an issue might arise with the Leaf auxiliary battery.
I went to leave and the car had a dead battery symbol and no response other than dash lights came on Tuesday night January 16th 2018. I plugged the chargers in and the next morning had green symbols on the chargers but still a dead auxiliary battery symbol. It was the all day with the temperature in a single digit. The car has now been on showing full charge status from the chargers for 48 hrs and the ambient temperature of the cab finally rose to 32* on thursday January 18th in full sun about 11 am when the battery symbol went off and the Leaf operated as it should.
Nissan does not prepare you for failure in cold temperatures other than state that it will lose range. They do not express any value of the auxiliary battery with this one being a Lit-ion dieing in the cold....they do not with all there gauges give you any status of this battery other than its dead...and guess what ....the car doesn't work.....I did see the manual state a boost but this widow had no car to boost from and the Mtn has no cell or phone service...I do mean country appalachia.
I took it back to the dealer on the 22nd and they kept it for a day returning it to me saying that all checked fine and if it happened again to HAVE IT TOWED IN..........THOUSANDS IN A ALMOST NEW...LOW MILE CAR....TO HAVE TOWED IN.
when asked about the print out about the test....such as an impedance test of the battery after being in a freezer(to replicate the event) They mention they could not do it because Nissan had to approve all testing equipment.....a refrigerator freezer will shed a lot of light but no they pass it back to you.....How can a consumer get anecdote info with the dealer passing the "BUCK"?
Thanks for this thread, got a lot of good info....hopes this helps document the corporate "SLACKING" leading to us "walking" needlessly !!!!
2015 Leaf S 12k mi just acquired less than a month ago from coming off lease in Alabama, January 8 2018 "FAILURE FROM AUX BATTERY"
I do not know how long it had "sat" before they shipped it to Chattanooga but I picked it up from Dealer and they said "charged" and ready to go !!!
7 days later I went and visited a friend on Dayton Mountain when a cold spell blew in and the temperature dipped to single digit 2*, Due to it being the first time to pull the mountain I left home with a full charge. I had traveled 14 miles and used 1/2 the main battery. I had brought my main trickle charger and also a motorcycle battery tender I use on my BMW gel battery due to reading such an issue might arise with the Leaf auxiliary battery.
I went to leave and the car had a dead battery symbol and no response other than dash lights came on Tuesday night January 16th 2018. I plugged the chargers in and the next morning had green symbols on the chargers but still a dead auxiliary battery symbol. It was the all day with the temperature in a single digit. The car has now been on showing full charge status from the chargers for 48 hrs and the ambient temperature of the cab finally rose to 32* on thursday January 18th in full sun about 11 am when the battery symbol went off and the Leaf operated as it should.
Nissan does not prepare you for failure in cold temperatures other than state that it will lose range. They do not express any value of the auxiliary battery with this one being a Lit-ion dieing in the cold....they do not with all there gauges give you any status of this battery other than its dead...and guess what ....the car doesn't work.....I did see the manual state a boost but this widow had no car to boost from and the Mtn has no cell or phone service...I do mean country appalachia.
I took it back to the dealer on the 22nd and they kept it for a day returning it to me saying that all checked fine and if it happened again to HAVE IT TOWED IN..........THOUSANDS IN A ALMOST NEW...LOW MILE CAR....TO HAVE TOWED IN.
when asked about the print out about the test....such as an impedance test of the battery after being in a freezer(to replicate the event) They mention they could not do it because Nissan had to approve all testing equipment.....a refrigerator freezer will shed a lot of light but no they pass it back to you.....How can a consumer get anecdote info with the dealer passing the "BUCK"?
Thanks for this thread, got a lot of good info....hopes this helps document the corporate "SLACKING" leading to us "walking" needlessly !!!!
↧
↧
60 miles daily roundtrip all year long
by Costy (Posted Sat, 03 Feb 2018 03:42:37 GMT+7)
Thank you very much guys for your quick and honest answers. It seems like I'm not going to make it with an older Leaf.
Someone asked me about the elevation. At home I have about 2200 feet, on top of the mountain I have 3220 feet and at work only 1100 feet.
From the top of the mountain to work I go downhill about 95% of the time and from top to home I go downhill 100%. The average speed is about 35-40 miles.
I was looking also for a 30kWh 2016 Leaf but I don't know how much it will really help me.
The 2018 Leaf looks nice but it's kind of expensive and I was reading lately a lot of good things about 2017 Hyundai Ioniq EV.
I will wait for 3 to 6 months to see how the prices will go with last 2 years models and I will make a decision. I will look at other manufacturers options too. It seems that from Nissan, only the new Leaf is going to really make it all year long.
Thank you very much guys for your quick and honest answers. It seems like I'm not going to make it with an older Leaf.
Someone asked me about the elevation. At home I have about 2200 feet, on top of the mountain I have 3220 feet and at work only 1100 feet.
From the top of the mountain to work I go downhill about 95% of the time and from top to home I go downhill 100%. The average speed is about 35-40 miles.
I was looking also for a 30kWh 2016 Leaf but I don't know how much it will really help me.
The 2018 Leaf looks nice but it's kind of expensive and I was reading lately a lot of good things about 2017 Hyundai Ioniq EV.
I will wait for 3 to 6 months to see how the prices will go with last 2 years models and I will make a decision. I will look at other manufacturers options too. It seems that from Nissan, only the new Leaf is going to really make it all year long.
↧
12 Volt Lead Acid Battery Replacement
↧
60 miles daily roundtrip all year long
by RegGuheert (Posted Sat, 03 Feb 2018 04:29:06 GMT+7)
BTW, if you wait 3 to 6 months, you will be testing your car in warm weather. I recommend that you instead test drive whatever car you are looking at ON YOUR WORK ROUTE IN COLD OR VERY COLD WEATHER. That's when efficiency and regen are the worst in any EV. Only then will you really know if the car is going to work for you. For instance, I'm confident that my MY2011 LEAF with its three-bar-degraded battery will work quite well on your commute, regen and all, in temperatures above about 70F.
That profile really is quite ideal if you are charging at work IF THE REGEN IS WORKING. The reason is that you will deplete the battery significantly before you start downhill. You probably want AT LEAST 20 kW of regen available, if you have more available, like maybe 30 kW, then you can do more than hold your speed on the downhills: you can slow the car for the turns, too.Costy wrote:Someone asked me about the elevation. At home I have about 2200 feet, on top of the mountain I have 3220 feet and at work only 1100 feet.
From the top of the mountain to work I go downhill about 95% of the time and from top to home I go downhill 100%. The average speed is about 35-40 miles.
As LeftieBiker said above, the batteries in the 30-kWh LEAFs are degrading faster than those in the 24-kWh LEAFs, so the regen problem is likely to arise fairly quickly. The good news about the 30-kWh LEAFs is that they are warranted for capacity loss for 8 years or 100,000 miles, which means you are likely to get a new battery in there along the way (or maybe even two!).Costy wrote:I was looking also for a 30kWh 2016 Leaf but I don't know how much it will really help me.
There's a fairly long thread on the Hyundai Ioniq on this forum, in case you are interested. Some of the LEAF owners here bought that when it came out. I remember the comments were fairly positive. I don't know about its regen capabilities, though.Costy wrote:The 2018 Leaf looks nice but it's kind of expensive and I was reading lately a lot of good things about 2017 Hyundai Ioniq EV.
Actually, given the elevation profiles you have ANY LEAF will work well WHEN NEW or WITH A NEW BATTERY. The main issue is with the loss of regen as they get older. That's a double whammy since it eats your brakes AND takes away your chance to recover energy downhill, which greatly hurts the efficiency in the cold (which is already worse than in the warm).Costy wrote:I will wait for 3 to 6 months to see how the prices will go with last 2 years models and I will make a decision. I will look at other manufacturers options too. It seems that from Nissan, only the new Leaf is going to really make it all year long.
BTW, if you wait 3 to 6 months, you will be testing your car in warm weather. I recommend that you instead test drive whatever car you are looking at ON YOUR WORK ROUTE IN COLD OR VERY COLD WEATHER. That's when efficiency and regen are the worst in any EV. Only then will you really know if the car is going to work for you. For instance, I'm confident that my MY2011 LEAF with its three-bar-degraded battery will work quite well on your commute, regen and all, in temperatures above about 70F.
↧