by DeudeMann (Posted Mon, 03 Jul 2017 17:59:20 GMT+7)
I just remembered to mention the wiring...
As shown in the images, the amplifier is located in the hatchback area. Because of this, power needs to be routed from the 12V battery (ideal) under the hood to the hatchback, along with the amplifier remote trigger wire, and the remote gain adjuster cable.
Firstly, I pulled the power wire, an 8-gauge cable, through the existing main harness grommet on the driver's side firewall. It is located behind the battery area. This has to be done carefully since you have to cut a small slit in the grommet boot in order to get the wire through, and you do not want to damage the wires in the main harness. This is the hard part of the wiring. The rest is easy.
For the remote amp trigger wire, I tapped off of a switched power fuse on the fuse panel located inside the car on the left face of the dash. This is fine since the remote wire sends very little current to the amplifier; it is only used to tell the amp when to turn on, and DOES NOT power the amp. Note that some amplifiers do not require this wire at all since they will turn on when they sense an audio input signal.
The remote gain adjuster was mounted to the driver's side tunnel (vertical surface next to the shifter) close to the front of the seat. The cable was tucked underneath the panel and routed back to the firewall.
Now the power wire, the remote trigger wire, and the remote gain cable all need to be routed back to the hatchback. This turned out to be quite simple to do...
1. There is a small gap at the back of the center console right up against the firewall, and near the bottom where it intersects the tunnel/floor hump. The wires can be fed through here to the passenger side.
2. The wires are tucked up out of sight underneath the dash, and routed towards the passenger door.
3. Pulling the passenger kick panel, the passenger side rocker panels (front and rear doors), and slightly pulling out the bottom of the b pillar and c pillar covers will provide the route. These are all easy to pull, just grab the edges and gently pull them up. Note that for the kick panel and the b and c piller lower covers, the door seal trim has to be pulled off the rocker panel. This is also easy, just pull it upward.
4. There is plenty of space to route and hide all three wires all the way to the trunk of the car. Note that there is a small tunnel where the existing Bose subwoofer speaker connector comes from. You can use a straight, thin piece of plastic tubing (like 1/4" flexible plumbing line) to poke through this tunnel from the hatchback side, to the area underneath the rear passenger seat next to the door. Just tape all three wires to the tubing and pull them through to the hatch. Easy.
A 16 foot piece of 8-gauge wire was just about the perfect length for routing from the 12V battery to the hatchback. A little longer would be nice, especially if you do not place the amp against the back of the rear passenger seats. Note that you NEED a high-current fuse for this wire located close to the battery.