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Radio resets
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$10K incentive for Leaf buyers in Arizona (SRP customers) !!
by GerryAZ (Posted Thu, 29 Jun 2017 22:04:56 GMT+7)
This is of little real benefit because it is discount from MSRP and it cannot be combined with other offers. The current 0% APR 6-year financing combined with Nissan cash back offers are much better and you don't need to be an SRP customer.
inphoenix wrote:Just got this email.
Nissan North America is offering SRP customers $10,000 off MSRP of a new 2017 Nissan LEAF. This opportunity is another part of SRP's efforts to accelerate clean transportation in Arizona and help customers save.
http://www.srpnet.com/electric/home/cars/offer.aspx
This is of little real benefit because it is discount from MSRP and it cannot be combined with other offers. The current 0% APR 6-year financing combined with Nissan cash back offers are much better and you don't need to be an SRP customer.
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2011 Nissan Leaf with a newly replaced battery
by JimSouCal (Posted Thu, 29 Jun 2017 22:18:19 GMT+7)
Point 1, I thought that as well. Correlation without causation... Fair enough.
Point 2, Not as likely. The amperage would be the same during the bulk of the charge for either batteries... Yes? More duration but same amperage... But yes, might be a factor.
Things do wear out but an elegant failure, nicer, as opposed to a literal melt down... In any case, I'd think Nissan legal would want to get to the bottom of it fairly promptly.
SageBrush wrote:One possibility is simple co-incidence: the EVSE went bad yesterday.
I'm more inclined to think that the EVSE had been defective for a while but the old battery 'protected' it by pulling a lower power. The new battery exposed the defect.
Point 1, I thought that as well. Correlation without causation... Fair enough.
Point 2, Not as likely. The amperage would be the same during the bulk of the charge for either batteries... Yes? More duration but same amperage... But yes, might be a factor.
Things do wear out but an elegant failure, nicer, as opposed to a literal melt down... In any case, I'd think Nissan legal would want to get to the bottom of it fairly promptly.
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Leaf Price / Discount discussion thread
by outspoken (Posted Thu, 29 Jun 2017 22:45:05 GMT+7)
I am interested in a leaf because my local electric company is offering $10k off. I am sorry if this has already been answered but I looked through several threads and did not see this addressed:
1) If I buy a 2017 Nissan leaf with the $10k off from the electric company, can I still negotiate off the MSRP sticker price? How likely would it be that the dealer knocks another $4k off?
2) I have heard if you finance your leaf through nissan finance they give you $4,000 cash back. Can you combine the $4k from nissan finance with the $10k from the electric company rebate?
So would I be able to do this...
2017 Nissan Leaf SV: $34,000 (roughly)
-$10k electric company rebate
-$4k nissan financing cashback
-$4k let's say off MSRP negotiating with dealer
-$7500 federal tax credit
total: $9,000
Is that possible?
Also, I searched Nissans website and only found 30 2017 Nissan leafs in stock at Nissan dealerships near me. Is it possible there's more? That doesnt seem like a lot and I would assume dealerships would be bursting with leafs with gas prices dropping like a rock.
Thanks in advance!
I am interested in a leaf because my local electric company is offering $10k off. I am sorry if this has already been answered but I looked through several threads and did not see this addressed:
1) If I buy a 2017 Nissan leaf with the $10k off from the electric company, can I still negotiate off the MSRP sticker price? How likely would it be that the dealer knocks another $4k off?
2) I have heard if you finance your leaf through nissan finance they give you $4,000 cash back. Can you combine the $4k from nissan finance with the $10k from the electric company rebate?
So would I be able to do this...
2017 Nissan Leaf SV: $34,000 (roughly)
-$10k electric company rebate
-$4k nissan financing cashback
-$4k let's say off MSRP negotiating with dealer
-$7500 federal tax credit
total: $9,000
Is that possible?
Also, I searched Nissans website and only found 30 2017 Nissan leafs in stock at Nissan dealerships near me. Is it possible there's more? That doesnt seem like a lot and I would assume dealerships would be bursting with leafs with gas prices dropping like a rock.
Thanks in advance!
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Bay Area Leaf Lease Deals? - Feb 2017
by Pnuts (Posted Fri, 30 Jun 2017 00:03:48 GMT+7)
Just curious as I am likely to head in there this weekend, what was your residual?
electricblue wrote:Pnuts wrote:electricblue wrote:Just got a Nissan Leaf S w/ Quick Charge from Autocom Nissan of Easy Bay (San Leandro).
I had the VPP discount.
$2500 down (Drive off)
$103/month + Tax
36 month lease @12k miles/year
The sales contact person was Charles Stewart.
I would have gotten a better deal if I took one of the colors they had in their inventory, but I wanted a blue, so stuck to the above deal.
The manager tried to sell me a maintenance plan, but as noted in the thread above, I opted not to go with it.
Just checking, on top of this, you then get to claim the CA Tax rebate for 2500 and PGE for 500 (assuming you qualify) right? Or is that already included in your numbers above?
Correct, I claim the CA Tax Rebate ($2500) and PGE ($500) separately on top of this. It's not included in my numbers.
Just curious as I am likely to head in there this weekend, what was your residual?
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End of Lease Strategies?
by LeftieBiker (Posted Fri, 30 Jun 2017 00:39:11 GMT+7)
Both.
mykalt45 wrote:So I received my lease extension paperwork today. Trying to think about the motivation for Nissan to give 3 months free. Have to imagine most folks are doing this. Do they really think the new Leaf will entice us to convert, or is it just a way to keep Leafs off the lot?
Both.
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NAVI STARTUP NG
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2011 Nissan Leaf with a newly replaced battery
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2014 Battery Stats
by jamieo (Posted Fri, 30 Jun 2017 05:25:42 GMT+7)
Just for completeness ... I took these readings this morning at 100% charge
June 30, 2017 AHr=58.11 SOH=88% 395.79V Hx=87.91% 32,4224 miles 16QCs & 1,172 L1/L2s[/quote]
jamieo wrote:jamieo wrote:
June 16, 2017 AHr=58.25 SOH=89% 384.14V Hx=88.33% 31,789 miles 16QCs & 1,157 L1/L2s
June 29, 2017 AHr=58.11 SOH=88% 383.87V Hx=88.03% 32,393 miles 16QCs & 1,171 L1/L2s
Just for completeness ... I took these readings this morning at 100% charge
June 30, 2017 AHr=58.11 SOH=88% 395.79V Hx=87.91% 32,4224 miles 16QCs & 1,172 L1/L2s[/quote]
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Official Tesla Model S thread
by DaveinOlyWA (Posted Fri, 30 Jun 2017 06:08:07 GMT+7)
Tesla's lack of quality has always been on my mind but how many repeat issues have we had? I also know several with Tesla's who had their in the shop at least twice for issues early in their ownership but have been ok since. These high mileage CPO's I would think have had the bugs addressed long ago.
Another thing I noticed is a lot of shop issues are centered around the high tech coolness features the cars had that were probably rushed out. One had 3 of his 4 doors, the handles stopped responding. So kinda little stuff.
Plus I have to think that Tesla wants this program to work and a large number of issues gets around fast these days so would have to think these cars were refined before being put back out again which brings me right back to what I have contended all along.
In the movie "Revenge of the Electric Car" it was pretty apparent to me that Tesla rushed cars to market in order to satisfy their creditors, not their customers. I think this still remained well after their creditors were paid off.
cwerdna wrote:^^^^
BTW, http://insideevs.com/tesla-model-s-batt ... n-america/ was taken awhile ago. http://www.greencarreports.com/news/110 ... a-suggests might be worth reading, even if you ignore the 2/3rds assertions.
As a general rule, I tend to shy away from cars with below average overall reliability ratings. The chart at the bottom of http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/2012 ... /index.htm is what the average problem rate is for each system for a given model year over the past 12 months period (which is what their survey covers).
To be fair, the 3 guys w/so many DU replacements were probably the most extreme, but it doesn't seem uncommon to find folks on "TMC" who've had at least 1 DU replacement. Maybe they finally got it right w/revision Q?
Tesla's lack of quality has always been on my mind but how many repeat issues have we had? I also know several with Tesla's who had their in the shop at least twice for issues early in their ownership but have been ok since. These high mileage CPO's I would think have had the bugs addressed long ago.
Another thing I noticed is a lot of shop issues are centered around the high tech coolness features the cars had that were probably rushed out. One had 3 of his 4 doors, the handles stopped responding. So kinda little stuff.
Plus I have to think that Tesla wants this program to work and a large number of issues gets around fast these days so would have to think these cars were refined before being put back out again which brings me right back to what I have contended all along.
In the movie "Revenge of the Electric Car" it was pretty apparent to me that Tesla rushed cars to market in order to satisfy their creditors, not their customers. I think this still remained well after their creditors were paid off.
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End of Lease Strategies?
by DaveinOlyWA (Posted Fri, 30 Jun 2017 06:11:57 GMT+7)
Because its really really stupid to lose a customer based on a few months of bad timing. Not sure how anyone could not understand this. They have already made up that 3 months free they are giving you so its not like its costing them anything to do it for a chance at a sale.
You should examine what dealerships spend on promos to bring in customers. Have a famous sports figure come to sign autographs at your local dealership? You would be shocked to find out how much the dealership pays for that.
mykalt45 wrote:So I received my lease extension paperwork today. Trying to think about the motivation for Nissan to give 3 months free. Have to imagine most folks are doing this. Do they really think the new Leaf will entice us to convert, or is it just a way to keep Leafs off the lot?
Because its really really stupid to lose a customer based on a few months of bad timing. Not sure how anyone could not understand this. They have already made up that 3 months free they are giving you so its not like its costing them anything to do it for a chance at a sale.
You should examine what dealerships spend on promos to bring in customers. Have a famous sports figure come to sign autographs at your local dealership? You would be shocked to find out how much the dealership pays for that.
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2015: Battery Data Report @ 100% Charge
by DaveinOlyWA (Posted Fri, 30 Jun 2017 06:24:58 GMT+7)
Great stats!
is the average temp just the 24/7 average for your area? Cause that is HOT!
Bufordleaf wrote:Took a reading last weekend on 6/18. Our Leaf is now 2 and 1/2 years old and going through it's third hot, Georgia summer. All things considered the battery is holding up well at 92% SOH. I bought the lease out in April b/c of the fairly ridiculous deal NMAC offered. As long as range holds up at 80% or more over the next 4 years the Leaf will have served us well. And who knows, maybe a replacement pack (30 kWh anyone?) will be available by then at a reasonable price!
Mileage 27,329
GIDs 270
kWh 20.9
SOC 97.3
SOH 92
Hx 87.64
AHr 57.34
Avg Temp 82.9
# QCs 51
GOM at full 96 miles
Great stats!
is the average temp just the 24/7 average for your area? Cause that is HOT!
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A/C fails when parked in heat/sun
by DaveinOlyWA (Posted Fri, 30 Jun 2017 06:29:11 GMT+7)
there was an issue with coolant lines leaking but that generally meant no cooling at all.
On mine, it would randomly switch air flow modes making it seem like the A/C stopped when it was actually in split mode "face/foot". Don't remember this happening on my 2011 but it happens frequently on both my 2013 and 2016
dsh wrote::?: Any LEAF owners who experienced their A/C blowing warm air intermittently, have the situation checked by Nissan, and come up with a solution? I'm at the dealership right now and going to have it checked out.
there was an issue with coolant lines leaking but that generally meant no cooling at all.
On mine, it would randomly switch air flow modes making it seem like the A/C stopped when it was actually in split mode "face/foot". Don't remember this happening on my 2011 but it happens frequently on both my 2013 and 2016
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D mode stays on even while on B mode
by DaveinOlyWA (Posted Fri, 30 Jun 2017 06:30:34 GMT+7)
Ahh a suspect emerges!
estomax wrote:so i did a test, i unplugged my Navdy HUD from the OBD port for a week and drove without it. Navdy does have OBD functionality so i suspected maybe it is sending something onto the canbus via the OBD port. I have not had any DTCs all week.
i am going to plug Navdy back in and see if the DTCs return. wierd stuff, time to contact their support. Does the Leaf OBD2 protocol differ from the standard ones?
cheers
Marko
Ahh a suspect emerges!
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Make my own carwings remote status upgrade
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2016-2017 model year 30 kWh bar losers and capacity losses
by DaveinOlyWA (Posted Fri, 30 Jun 2017 06:33:13 GMT+7)
His pack probably won't see double figure temps till October. Phoenix is simply a different World.
I am south in a much warmer climate and I have baked my batteries into the 120's several dozen times but like you, I cool down every night.
(mostly with the exception of last Saturday night when garage got no lower than 82º) Now I might be on borrowed time due to the abusive actions and we shall see. One Summer might not be enough though but my previous 2 LEAFs provided no real indication in the first year either but this first year will be MUCH more miles than previous years .
ElectricEddy wrote:cmeyeres wrote:2016 Nissan Leaf 30kWh lost 2 bars after 18 months and 31,000 miles.
Drive to/from work everyday round trip of 84 miles in Phoenix, AZ.
My guess is your battery never gets a chance to cool down is that correct?
From what I've found the optimum temperature for me is between 80 and 90 degrees (2016 sl) but the conditions in these neck of the woods allows the battery to cool down to low 70's or even high 60's between runs and keeps it at 98 to 99% SOH.
His pack probably won't see double figure temps till October. Phoenix is simply a different World.
I am south in a much warmer climate and I have baked my batteries into the 120's several dozen times but like you, I cool down every night.
(mostly with the exception of last Saturday night when garage got no lower than 82º) Now I might be on borrowed time due to the abusive actions and we shall see. One Summer might not be enough though but my previous 2 LEAFs provided no real indication in the first year either but this first year will be MUCH more miles than previous years .
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Nissan BladeGlider - Performance EV Concept
by jhm614 (Posted Fri, 30 Jun 2017 06:36:32 GMT+7)
Another article (from Down Under this time!) about the upcoming Goodwood appearance and that fact that Nissan will give a few test drives...
https://www.driven.co.nz/news/news/blad ... prototype/
Another article (from Down Under this time!) about the upcoming Goodwood appearance and that fact that Nissan will give a few test drives...
https://www.driven.co.nz/news/news/blad ... prototype/
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EVSE options for 2013+ Leafs
by MalcolmReynolds (Posted Fri, 30 Jun 2017 07:29:45 GMT+7)
JJeff, Thanks for the feedback on the 6a and on the Juicebox Pro. I am not crazy about having "internet" only access to this. I wish they would build a simple wifi web interface on these things so that you can connect and manage it locally. Are there other options that people recommend? I was looking at the Chargepoint EVSE also, but I was hoping to future proof this just a little if I can with the 40amp option on the Juicebox pro or something similar. I like the option to be able to monitor, track, and manage charges, monitor the power consumption, charging, and historical data as I feel those are very useful tools. If there are other options out there that fit that description let me know. I am still looking at my options.
I didn't think about the 6a being too low, I hope it will still work for those times when you need a charge and don't have other options. It is the crisis mode charging level for when there aren't any other options. Something is better than nothing idea.![:)]( "Smile")
JJeff, Thanks for the feedback on the 6a and on the Juicebox Pro. I am not crazy about having "internet" only access to this. I wish they would build a simple wifi web interface on these things so that you can connect and manage it locally. Are there other options that people recommend? I was looking at the Chargepoint EVSE also, but I was hoping to future proof this just a little if I can with the 40amp option on the Juicebox pro or something similar. I like the option to be able to monitor, track, and manage charges, monitor the power consumption, charging, and historical data as I feel those are very useful tools. If there are other options out there that fit that description let me know. I am still looking at my options.
I didn't think about the 6a being too low, I hope it will still work for those times when you need a charge and don't have other options. It is the crisis mode charging level for when there aren't any other options. Something is better than nothing idea.
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Contantly cooling while charging and driving
by arnis (Posted Fri, 30 Jun 2017 08:23:50 GMT+7)
It is extremely unlikely to get anything more than 10 degrees above ambient (without DC charging).
I've tried. So if it is 5C outside, battery might get to 15C at most (without DC).
After DC battery will cool down within 3-5 hours to levels mentioned above.
It is extremely unlikely to get anything more than 10 degrees above ambient (without DC charging).
I've tried. So if it is 5C outside, battery might get to 15C at most (without DC).
After DC battery will cool down within 3-5 hours to levels mentioned above.
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Mods for the Blink EVSE ! (was Fix)
by gonefishin (Posted Fri, 30 Jun 2017 09:01:26 GMT+7)
Thanks for this link to the PDF. In case that link ever goes bad you can search for "we-30CIRE residential service manual" - I was able to find another copy on the internet at http://www.rdrop.com/pipermail/oeva-list/2016-April/010195.html. I tried the steps in this manual but I'm not optimistic the problem is fixed.
Let me summarize my adventures in the last 2 years with the Self-Test faults. I tried moving the CTs... went away... came back. I tried lobotomizing it... went away... came back. I then put the smart electronics back... went away... came back. I then left the cover off and was finally able to catch it in the act and was able to get it to work again after fiddling with the CT and the switch attached to the side of the contactor. I noticed that mine was throwing the fault before the contactor closed, so it had nothing to do with an RF surge, and therefore has nothing to do with whether the CT & Ferrite is slid to one side or the other. The RF surge only happens after the contactor closes.
First I replaced that switch next to the contactor, but I was disappointed to find the brand new one also didn't have a spring - it just relies upon the contactor, and as I feared it did not resolve the problem. I then focused on the CT and a couple of times I was able to press the display to clear the fault, move the CTs around, and get it to charge. In the past I had never been able to get it to charge without power cycling so I thought this was progress. Now after checking back on this thread and reading the PDF I think I understand the problem better. I think the CTs are definitely the problem, and everytime someone fiddles with their cable it temporarily solves the problem.
The PDF link explains in TSB-42 that before charging, a signal is sent down 2 wires of the CT, and read on the other 2. If the signal isn't within expected values, it throws the Self-Test fault. It sure would have been nice to call it a CT fault instead... but we finally learn the truth. Their fix is to :
- Test the "self-weld switch" by resistance which is the funny box stuck to the contactor, a "Cutler Hammer C320KG1 Contactor Auxilliary Contact". I already replaced mine without effect.
- Cut the two main CT leads and test resistance is under <50 ohms, mine was 44 so it's OK. If the CT resistance was >50ohms, replace it.
- Replace the butt splices. I didn't have the ferrule or tool it requires so I used the smallest wire nut I could find... most won't work. I tried to open the old butt splices and look but they appear to have been glued??!! The connections seemed solid but the glue could be interfering with them. I tested the splices with my meter and couldn't make it fail so I'm quite skeptical this will solve the problem. That's what I've done so far and will have to let it test for a month to see if it comes back
- Check the CT motherboard connector pins that they aren't falling out. I checked mine - no issues.
So based on my experiments I do feel the problem is with the CT. Their suggestions of the butt splices & motherboard connector make sense, but I see no evidence that's my problem. The last step I could take it to replace the CT. I believe OpenEVSE sells a 4 wire CT w/self-test which should work https://store.openevse.com/products/gfci-current-transformer for $30.
If none of this works, I was planning on using the OpenEVSE kit to replace the "brains" of the Blink charger. I believe this kit for $105 (LED only ) to $150 (color LCD) https://store.openevse.com/products/openevse-international-combo-openevse-v3 can be used to replace everything inside the Blink charger box reusing the 240V AC connection, J1772 connector, and CH contactor. I've read the instructions and it seems pretty straightforward except mounting the LCD to the cabinet which will be challenge since they only give you a few inches of cable for their tiny box. Their $250 kit https://store.openevse.com/products/openevse-30a-charge-station-combo replaces the blink box and contactor as well. I've seen hints that other people have done this but couldn't find any firsthand reports.
webfootguy wrote:I have used my google fu in the past to find this document. It might help.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-H9hcTGtvl_azF6Z0c0OGUzc3M
Phil H.
Thanks for this link to the PDF. In case that link ever goes bad you can search for "we-30CIRE residential service manual" - I was able to find another copy on the internet at http://www.rdrop.com/pipermail/oeva-list/2016-April/010195.html. I tried the steps in this manual but I'm not optimistic the problem is fixed.
Let me summarize my adventures in the last 2 years with the Self-Test faults. I tried moving the CTs... went away... came back. I tried lobotomizing it... went away... came back. I then put the smart electronics back... went away... came back. I then left the cover off and was finally able to catch it in the act and was able to get it to work again after fiddling with the CT and the switch attached to the side of the contactor. I noticed that mine was throwing the fault before the contactor closed, so it had nothing to do with an RF surge, and therefore has nothing to do with whether the CT & Ferrite is slid to one side or the other. The RF surge only happens after the contactor closes.
First I replaced that switch next to the contactor, but I was disappointed to find the brand new one also didn't have a spring - it just relies upon the contactor, and as I feared it did not resolve the problem. I then focused on the CT and a couple of times I was able to press the display to clear the fault, move the CTs around, and get it to charge. In the past I had never been able to get it to charge without power cycling so I thought this was progress. Now after checking back on this thread and reading the PDF I think I understand the problem better. I think the CTs are definitely the problem, and everytime someone fiddles with their cable it temporarily solves the problem.
The PDF link explains in TSB-42 that before charging, a signal is sent down 2 wires of the CT, and read on the other 2. If the signal isn't within expected values, it throws the Self-Test fault. It sure would have been nice to call it a CT fault instead... but we finally learn the truth. Their fix is to :
- Test the "self-weld switch" by resistance which is the funny box stuck to the contactor, a "Cutler Hammer C320KG1 Contactor Auxilliary Contact". I already replaced mine without effect.
- Cut the two main CT leads and test resistance is under <50 ohms, mine was 44 so it's OK. If the CT resistance was >50ohms, replace it.
- Replace the butt splices. I didn't have the ferrule or tool it requires so I used the smallest wire nut I could find... most won't work. I tried to open the old butt splices and look but they appear to have been glued??!! The connections seemed solid but the glue could be interfering with them. I tested the splices with my meter and couldn't make it fail so I'm quite skeptical this will solve the problem. That's what I've done so far and will have to let it test for a month to see if it comes back
- Check the CT motherboard connector pins that they aren't falling out. I checked mine - no issues.
So based on my experiments I do feel the problem is with the CT. Their suggestions of the butt splices & motherboard connector make sense, but I see no evidence that's my problem. The last step I could take it to replace the CT. I believe OpenEVSE sells a 4 wire CT w/self-test which should work https://store.openevse.com/products/gfci-current-transformer for $30.
If none of this works, I was planning on using the OpenEVSE kit to replace the "brains" of the Blink charger. I believe this kit for $105 (LED only ) to $150 (color LCD) https://store.openevse.com/products/openevse-international-combo-openevse-v3 can be used to replace everything inside the Blink charger box reusing the 240V AC connection, J1772 connector, and CH contactor. I've read the instructions and it seems pretty straightforward except mounting the LCD to the cabinet which will be challenge since they only give you a few inches of cable for their tiny box. Their $250 kit https://store.openevse.com/products/openevse-30a-charge-station-combo replaces the blink box and contactor as well. I've seen hints that other people have done this but couldn't find any firsthand reports.
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