Quantcast
Channel: My Nissan Leaf Forum
Viewing all 69396 articles
Browse latest View live

Chevrolet Bolt - 60 kWh, 238 mi, < 7s 0-60

$
0
0
by TonyWilliams (Posted Fri, 24 Feb 2017 21:14:24 GMT+7)
edatoakrun wrote:You two are welcome to continue arguing over which of these two BEVs can make any trip of eight to eighteen hours a few minutes faster than the other under any realistic assumptions, or even the distinctly unreal assumptions Tony prefers to consider, as graphically displayed above.

But you'd have to be an idiot, IMO, to consider that small a travel time advantage by either BEV a significant reason to choose to buy either of them, when any beater ICEV would shorten total travel time on the same route by hours.


Heck, Ed, I might even unblock you after that logical statement. I don't personally care to compare 100-ish range cars for long distance trips. To be honest, it's a bit nutty to consider them for "normal" driving over a long distance.

I didn't expect you to make a logical comment about my "unreal" graph. That's because it's not unreal. I actually added an arbitrary 1 hour, plus 15 minutes of "not charging / not driving" time, while each person fumbles for the plug. Also, the average speed is 7% below the indicated speed, knowing that no 75-125 mile trip will average 65mph, just because that's how fast you're driving. There's a few other factors thrown in, too. With my now well over 100,000 miles of EV driving, and many long trips under my belt (I think you've gone all the way to Sacto? or SF Bay?).

I think that I've driven an EV more times than you to/from the Mt Shasta area to the Sacto / Bay area. In the last 5 years, I've done it at least 8-10 times. I can tell you that nothing beats a Tesla during my month long, coast to coast drive last year (San Diego, Washington state, Austin, TX, Atlanta, Massachusetts, Buffalo, NY, hit a deer, $38k in damages, Pittsburgh, Cleveland, Chicago, Madison, WI, Rapid City, SD, Montana, Washington state again, San Diego). All EV.. and you ain't gunna do that in your 2011 LEAF, or a 2017 Bolt EV.

The Rav4 EV that I drive charges at that same average 42kW (although up to about 75 - 80% of a 45kWh battery). With a ideal range of about 120-140 miles at freeway speed with a new condition battery, I consider this the ABSOLUTE minimum for a regional touring car. Just like the Bolt EV, I drive 75-125 miles typically, and charge for 30 to 60 minutes typically. There's a huge advantage to the consumption of the Bolt EV over my Rav4 EV, but I wouldn't trade (Bolt EV around 4 miles per kWh at 65mph, Rav4 EV about 3.4 miles per kWh).

So, the shorter range Hyundai might have a bit better consumption at freeway speed? In exchange for a 100 mile car? No thanks. You couldn't give me another "100 mile" range car, although we will buy one for a company car next month (a LEAF, of course).



Leaf suspension mods from Juke?

$
0
0
by LeftieBiker (Posted Fri, 24 Feb 2017 21:47:40 GMT+7)
Yes, indeed. Ironically, the dealership tech approach is to start replacing parts until they hit, accidentally or on purpose, on the one that actually needed it. That's another way to throw away money.


Buying a used Leaf

$
0
0
by LeftieBiker (Posted Fri, 24 Feb 2017 21:55:12 GMT+7)
4. The heated seats were standard from 2012 through 2014, IIRC, but I believe the rear heated seats were dropped for 2015, at least on the S and SV models. Look for a switch for the rear seat heaters on the side of the passenger side seat back that faces the driver's seat. (Someone please verify that - I have rear seat heaters but have never used them.)

Also, if a Leaf S has a DC charging port, it also has the faster onboard charger. They are both parts of the same option package.


Anybody with 2011 or 2012 interested in upgrade to new battery?

$
0
0
by NiallDarwin (Posted Fri, 24 Feb 2017 21:56:51 GMT+7)
Kris1 wrote:Yeah, a replacement G1 BMS is what ND is after isn't it? Also interested to hear your thoughts on swapping the new double thickness ( https://www.dropbox.com/s/qt88me809t3w5w2/1.25kwh.jpg?dl=0) modules into a G1 battery case.

Thanks for the share. That looks made for short-circuiting. Be careful when you get one!


Plain Leaf vs Modded Leaf vs No Leaf

$
0
0
by LeftieBiker (Posted Fri, 24 Feb 2017 22:00:39 GMT+7)
Sounds like I'm coming onto something here. I could get a small generator for those days I want an adventure with the family, and travel from charging station to charging station with the generator as a backup. And on days I need to get somewhere fast I can rent a car. That seems to be the most practical, economical and stress-free choice.


For that scenario you might want to install a hitch, and get a small storage trailer with enough room for both the gen and any extra stuff you need to carry for a family outing over a larger distance. Then, in a year or two, you'll be shopping for one of those tiny Airstream trailers... ;-)


Maintenance on a pre-owned Leaf

$
0
0
by seanheat (Posted Sat, 25 Feb 2017 00:08:21 GMT+7)
Searched the topics for this but couldn't find a cohesive answer. Just got a '13 SV with around 35k miles on it pre-owned for a good deal, about 3 weeks ago. Still waiting on the tags from DMV. Now, placed around 300 miles on it, was just wondering when is the next scheduled maintenance time? I think last one done was the 30k maintenance done via previous owner. What mileage and/or time frame should I take it in, and would any Leaf-certified Nissan dealer work? I heard there's a mandatory battery inspection that we're required to go through? Is this hogwash?

Any help much appreciated!


Buying a used Leaf

$
0
0
by alozzy (Posted Sat, 25 Feb 2017 00:29:12 GMT+7)
1. If it's a 2013 S and it has the QC port, then it also has the 6.6kw charger

4. Pretty sure that heated seats are standard feature on all 2013s and newer

5. The home charger you are referring to is called an EVSE. You don't have to spend $2000 though. Plenty of options under $1000 for 6.6 kw charging, and less than $300 for 240V charging @ 16A (3.84 kw).


Aeromod nissan leaf improved aerodynamics increased range

$
0
0
by lorenfb (Posted Sat, 25 Feb 2017 00:56:22 GMT+7)
NeilBlanchard wrote:
lorenfb wrote:Read it again! There're two factors affecting energy loss while the vehicle is moving:

1. the rolling resistance energy loss - not affected by any aero mods & contributes the most below 45 - 50 MPH, increasing tire pressure beyond normal has minimal effect
2. the drag energy loss - has the most effect at highway speeds greater than 50 MPH, without major body
re-designs and when driving at speed limits, aero mods have little to no REAL effects.

Without any real data, e.g. using a scientific methodology, the results provided in this thread are no better than conjecture!


Um, not really.

The drivetrain efficiency is the most important factor to efficiency to moving the car. This is why EV's are so much better than ICE vehicles.

The second most important factor is aerodynamic drag. For typical cars HALF the load on the drivetrain occurs at 28-30MPH. And it increases rapidly - aero drag goes up by the square of the speed.

Rolling resistance is third, and it increases linearly, so it dominates below 28-30MPH.

Weight is next - and weight can be partially regained, through coasting and regen.

Here's my blog post on this, based on the data from the Automotive X-Prize:

http://neilblanchard.blogspot.com/2010/09/x-prize-knockout-round-cont.html


It appears that you have failed to fully read this thread and understand the points being made,
i.e. by those making the mods. Try re-reading this thread again, i.e. THE ISSUES BEING DISCUSSED
ARE EXCLUSIVE OF THE DRIVETRAIN LOSSES!
. You obviously have overlooked where VitaminJ has
focused his efforts.



Using the Leaf for home power backup

$
0
0
by Zootjeff (Posted Sat, 25 Feb 2017 01:00:40 GMT+7)
I live in an area near Seattle that experiences frequent power outages and my home is wired for generator backup. My home actually came with a portable 6000w generator but it hasn't been run in 10 years and the engine needs to be rebuilt so I'm holding off on that project..

My options are to go buy a new generator, one that will put out a lot of fumes, noise and need gas or propane every 8 hours.. or spend thousands of dollars on a dedicated natural gas system. Or buy a portable 2000watt 120v-only setup and only do the fridge.

I could connect to the Leafs 12v 80amp system and get about 700watts to maybe run the fridge, no.

I have a 24kWh 400v battery sitting in my garage. What I really want is a product that has a DC quick charge connector on one side, and a two pole 120/240v 30amp twist lock on the other side. It would ideally have 20A per pole up to 4800 watts. It would generate it's own 60hz 2-pole 240/120v inverter power, and I would plug it into my generator outlet, throw the switch-over breaker and my house has power in the power outage.. I would avoid running the elecric dryer and the electric stove, vacuums, etc but furnace, fridge, lights, computers, bathroom fans, all still work.

Anyone want to start a kickstarter with me? Or has this already been done?


Defrost AND Recirc

$
0
0
by Zootjeff (Posted Sat, 25 Feb 2017 01:07:36 GMT+7)
Did they ever fix this re-circ design flaw in later models?


which year is the best deal

$
0
0
by trexmdr (Posted Sat, 25 Feb 2017 01:11:16 GMT+7)
Hi everyone,
I would like to buy a leaf as a second around town car.
I'm sure I drive less than 50 miles/day if even that.
That being said which year and price range gives me the best bang for the buck?
I was thinking a 2013 for about $7500.
But are the 2014 better? And I am not concerned about more range.
Is the 2012 0r 2011 adequat?
Maybe pay a lot less for an older higher mileage car with a few bars gone and get a new battery when the time comes?
What do you think.
Thank you all
Sincerely,
RT


Chevrolet Bolt - 60 kWh, 238 mi, < 7s 0-60

$
0
0
by lorenfb (Posted Sat, 25 Feb 2017 01:21:21 GMT+7)
Stoaty wrote:Who would want to stop twice as often to charge (Ioniq)? That assumes there are plenty of charging stations, extra time to get off the freeway and find the station, etc. A longer stop with the Bolt would be more conducive to getting a meal. Do you want a long tether, or a short one? The answer is pretty obvious to me. How about 200 mile trips? No stopping to charge with the Bolt. I drive 140 miles round trip most weekends with a lot of elevation gain. The Bolt would handle that easily. I would have to charge the Ioniq. Note to self: longer range is better.


And then there's the simple logical and rational approach that prevails for most!


FS: 2015 Nissan Leaf Traction, Battery, and Misc

$
0
0
by akkord64 (Posted Fri, 24 Feb 2017 13:27:51 GMT+7)
I have only Qty 2 - 17" SV wheels with TPS sensors and literally no tire wear. I can measure the tread if your interested when I get home.


which year is the best deal

$
0
0
by sdbmania (Posted Sat, 25 Feb 2017 02:09:33 GMT+7)
I got a 2013 SV with all the features I wanted at around 10k recently. Any leaf from April 2013 and up should be good but the older the model year the more affordable. if yiu can get a 2015 used, those have the lizzard battery which is supposed to be more durable then older models. The 13s are probably still the most available right now.


Buying a used Leaf

$
0
0
by minidanas (Posted Sat, 25 Feb 2017 02:23:45 GMT+7)
Thank you for the response.

Now I clearly understand answers to 1, 2, and 4. Regarding the question 3 about gas door socket, I am not sure. I thought I had seen something in one of the threads. Not important, anyway.

Regarding the question 5, I read about this home charging station that is a permanent installation that costs a lot of money but is eligible for tax credits so ends up costing maybe $1000 or less. So it can't be a DC charging, and therefore probably a 240V 6.6kW station. What's the benefit of having a $1000 upright station to charge my car if I can do exactly the same with a cable?



which year is the best deal

$
0
0
by IssacZachary (Posted Sat, 25 Feb 2017 03:27:01 GMT+7)
The 2013 year came with many improvements, but mostly on SV's and SL's. Lets see here:

  • 2011 and 2012
    • All came with a 3.3kW (7 hours) charger.
    • All came with terribly inefficient resistance heat.
    • Worse for battery degradation if you find one with the original battery.
    • Did have the 80% charge feature to help prolong battery life.
  • 2013
    • The April and later 2013's got a better battery.
    • SV's and SL's and some S's got a 6.6kW charger (which takes 4 hours max, usually less than 3.)
    • The 2013's still all had the 80% charge feature.
    • SV's and SL's came with more efficient heat pump heater.
  • 2014
    • Same as 2013 except the 80% charge feature was removed in the USA. So this may degrade the battery a little faster.
  • 2015
    • Same as 2014 except even better battery.

Note too that the luxury levels S, SV and SL determine a lot of what's on the Leaf or not. For an example, the base level S hasn't changed much since the original 2011 model. But the SV's and SL's have gotten more stuff over the years (3.3kW to 6.6kW charger in 2013, resistance heater to heat pump heater in 2013 and 24kWh battery to 30kWh battery in 2016.) This is why when I went to buy my Leaf I could have gotten a 2015 S with only 4,000 miles on it for less than a 2013 SL with 40,000 miles on it at the same dealership. I went for the older SL because I figured I needed the faster charger and the heat pump heater.

PS. Anyone who knows more than I do please correct me if I'm wrong.


Public discussion of Tony Williams ban from Mynissanleaf

$
0
0
by FalconFour (Posted Sat, 25 Feb 2017 04:11:29 GMT+7)
Both of you are just getting less and less professional reputation from this little exchange you're both engaging in here... neither of you has the willpower to just close the thread and ignore further comments...? Really, guys? Defending your ego can only go so far... at some point, doing so just becomes self-destructive. Literally, both of you appear like equal-leveled jerks right now.

Hopefully this can be the end. We get it. I see both of your points. I think we all do. Just... ugh, this has all taken both of your reps so far downhill in the past few posts... :?

Stahp.


Defrost AND Recirc

$
0
0
by LeftieBiker (Posted Sat, 25 Feb 2017 04:38:59 GMT+7)
Zootjeff wrote:Did they ever fix this re-circ design flaw in later models?


I don't think so, but there is 'partial recirculate' mode, in which you can hold the Recirc button in for 2 seconds while in floor only mode (or any other mode that allows recirculation) and after 2 flashes of the light it turns off, leaving the intake partially open. By selecting Floor only, fan speed of 2 or higher, and partial recirculate, you can keep the windshield clear with much less outside air brought in.


Capacity Loss on 2011-2012 LEAFs

$
0
0
by DaveinOlyWA (Posted Sat, 25 Feb 2017 07:30:55 GMT+7)
Marktm wrote:Correction may be in order for my last post - appears there is reported a larger "drop" (15% or almost 10 AHrs?) for the first bar. That would result in a smaller AHr delta required for the remaining bars dropped.


capacity bars 15% for 12th, 6¼% for the other 11 then you have a reserve.


Which is a more economical way to charge?L1 or L2?

$
0
0
by Randy993 (Posted Sat, 25 Feb 2017 08:07:10 GMT+7)
Thanks for the reply. I ran across a thread this morning that led me to ask.


Viewing all 69396 articles
Browse latest View live