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DCFC Stations Bakersfield to the Sierra Nevada East Side Coming
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Removing Goop Bottle from Tire Repair Kit
by glaurent (Posted Fri, 06 Jul 2018 14:52:58 GMT+7)
I unfortunately had a flat tire on my way to work this morning (2017 LEAF). I ended up calling a tow truck, but decided to try the ContiMobility Kit while waiting, as the tow truck company quoted me a long wait time.
Unfortunately, the hole in the tire was significantly large enough that the goop repair kit was totally useless. (Sadly, I ended up needing a new rear tire, which has shown relatively little wear.)
I was unaware of the high cost to replace the kit, but wanted to remove the can of goop (latex?) in order to use the compressor at a later time. Unfortunately the can of goop appears to "ratchet" onto the compressor and cannot be easily removed.
Has anyone else had this issue -- Can the plastic bottle be removed? I am considering taking a dremel to it, but wanted to see if there was something I was missing...
(For the future, I'll likely get a tire plug kit for emergency, so this inflator would be useful.)
I unfortunately had a flat tire on my way to work this morning (2017 LEAF). I ended up calling a tow truck, but decided to try the ContiMobility Kit while waiting, as the tow truck company quoted me a long wait time.
Unfortunately, the hole in the tire was significantly large enough that the goop repair kit was totally useless. (Sadly, I ended up needing a new rear tire, which has shown relatively little wear.)
I was unaware of the high cost to replace the kit, but wanted to remove the can of goop (latex?) in order to use the compressor at a later time. Unfortunately the can of goop appears to "ratchet" onto the compressor and cannot be easily removed.
Has anyone else had this issue -- Can the plastic bottle be removed? I am considering taking a dremel to it, but wanted to see if there was something I was missing...
(For the future, I'll likely get a tire plug kit for emergency, so this inflator would be useful.)
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Center console rebooted while driving
by metzroth (Posted Fri, 06 Jul 2018 15:32:42 GMT+7)
So after 106,000 miles of maintenance free operation in my nissan leaf. Following a 12V battery replacement I scanned with LeafSpy and found these codes present. Given the age of the vehicle I screenshot them and cleared all of them.
C1706 0008 BCM Low Pressure RR WT-26
C1A62 0108 BRAKE Control Mod Pwr Supply BR-53
P312A 00D2 EV/HEV Comm Error EVC-208
P3131 00D2 EV/HEV System Shutoff Timeout EVC-220
P31C2 00D1 EV/HEV TCU EVC-273
B2785 0008 HVAC Comp IPM Overheat HAC-96
B2786 0008 HVAC Comp IPM Discharge Temp Limit HAC-96
B2791 0008 HVAC Comp Low Spd Hi Load HAC-110
U1266 0208 MULTI AV TCU Conn AV-92
U1232 0108 MULTI AV St Angle Sen Calib AV-88
U1A05 0008 TCU USB Comm AV-199
Note that none of these cause the car to throw up any sort of alarms or issues. I'll drive the car for a week and see if any re-appear / are actual problems that need fixing. Lots of codes in there, but then again 7 years and 106,000 miles without any issues probably generates lots of codes![:-)]( "Smile")
So after 106,000 miles of maintenance free operation in my nissan leaf. Following a 12V battery replacement I scanned with LeafSpy and found these codes present. Given the age of the vehicle I screenshot them and cleared all of them.
C1706 0008 BCM Low Pressure RR WT-26
C1A62 0108 BRAKE Control Mod Pwr Supply BR-53
P312A 00D2 EV/HEV Comm Error EVC-208
P3131 00D2 EV/HEV System Shutoff Timeout EVC-220
P31C2 00D1 EV/HEV TCU EVC-273
B2785 0008 HVAC Comp IPM Overheat HAC-96
B2786 0008 HVAC Comp IPM Discharge Temp Limit HAC-96
B2791 0008 HVAC Comp Low Spd Hi Load HAC-110
U1266 0208 MULTI AV TCU Conn AV-92
U1232 0108 MULTI AV St Angle Sen Calib AV-88
U1A05 0008 TCU USB Comm AV-199
Note that none of these cause the car to throw up any sort of alarms or issues. I'll drive the car for a week and see if any re-appear / are actual problems that need fixing. Lots of codes in there, but then again 7 years and 106,000 miles without any issues probably generates lots of codes
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Are New to Plug-In Vehicles? - Have you charged in public yet?
by UBUYGAS (Posted Fri, 06 Jul 2018 15:39:02 GMT+7)
Hello, fellow Plug-IN Vehicle owner,
Within the past 5.5 years and after speaking to thousands of Plug-IN Vehicle owners
I have established the following:
"Electric Vehicle Charging Guidelines" for use with Public Charging Stations.
(otherwise, know as the EVguidelines by Sal Cameli)
Please Note:
We don’t know the level of Public EV charging knowledge of the person receiving these
Guidelines and so we need to explain every aspect. This should be a document that the
new EV owner reads before attempting to use public charging stations for the first time.
We want to prepare them for any situation. So the guidelines need to be thorough.
This attached PDF has the top 11 EV Guidelines. Please visit http://EVguidelines.org for the complete list.
On the website under the "PDF" tab, there are files you can download, print, trim and hand-out which will
allow you to teach Novice EV Owners some proper EV Etiquette when using charging stations in public.
Thank you,
Sal Cameli
aka UBUYGAS
http://ev-guidelines.org/EVGuidelines_Handout_7by10higrez.pdf
![Image]()
Hello, fellow Plug-IN Vehicle owner,
Within the past 5.5 years and after speaking to thousands of Plug-IN Vehicle owners
I have established the following:
"Electric Vehicle Charging Guidelines" for use with Public Charging Stations.
(otherwise, know as the EVguidelines by Sal Cameli)
Please Note:
We don’t know the level of Public EV charging knowledge of the person receiving these
Guidelines and so we need to explain every aspect. This should be a document that the
new EV owner reads before attempting to use public charging stations for the first time.
We want to prepare them for any situation. So the guidelines need to be thorough.
This attached PDF has the top 11 EV Guidelines. Please visit http://EVguidelines.org for the complete list.
On the website under the "PDF" tab, there are files you can download, print, trim and hand-out which will
allow you to teach Novice EV Owners some proper EV Etiquette when using charging stations in public.
Thank you,
Sal Cameli
aka UBUYGAS
http://ev-guidelines.org/EVGuidelines_Handout_7by10higrez.pdf
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Maintenance Vs Warranty
by downeykp (Posted Fri, 06 Jul 2018 15:53:16 GMT+7)
Other than, tires, wiper blades and cabin filters there is nothing that needs to be done. Other than those things I have not done anything to my 2011.
SchneerLaterne wrote:Oh believe me, I stay away from the dealership if I can. My cousin and his late dad have run a garage for 60 or so years. I don't mess with dealerships. I just wonder why Nissan (and all car makers) insist that you need to do the recommended maintenance to keep your warranty if its not true. I mean, I get the obvious answer (money) but it doesn't make sense. I'm in Canada, so by law here you're allowed to get your car serviced by any licensed mechanic even if its under warranty. But seriously, I'll get the battery check and I guess have them change the battery in my key and be done.
Other than, tires, wiper blades and cabin filters there is nothing that needs to be done. Other than those things I have not done anything to my 2011.
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Abusive behavior and threats by moderators on MNL.
by GRA (Posted Fri, 06 Jul 2018 16:36:11 GMT+7)
Indeed. I've reported a fair number of such posts invariably made by just a few members, with no mod action taken AFAICT, nor did they ever get back to me as the report function says they will. I've always thought that replacing letters with grammatical symbols was silly, as everyone just mentally replaces the letters - it's not as if anyone doesn't know what the words are, so who's being fooled? It's the adult equivalent of a child thinking that if they close their eyes it makes them invisible. Would it be acceptable to write "Intercourse you", when the meaning and intent is the same, or would I*^$#$&@+e Y&u be OK? Or is it that full words are out, but abbreviations and acronyms are acceptable, like FU or perhaps FOAD? ISTR seeing both used by posters in this forum to Ed with nary a reaction from mods. Is there anyone here who's unable to interpret their meaning? This is silly.
The issue is the ad hominem attack, not the specific way it's expressed, and let's not pretend that there aren't occasions where profanity/obscenity has legitimate uses, whether quoting or merely to express the full flavor of an opinion.
Re banning and blocking, Ed was certainly stopped from posting his opinion re what he claims (with no statistical data to back it up, as he himself admist is both lacking and necessary) is a high level of injury to Tesla occupants in accidents. I chided him about starting such a thread based on no evidence beyond anecdotal accounts, and IMO EVDRIVER accurately described Ed's motivation for doing so as "agenda biased". But that doesn't justify locking that thread, as Ed was just stating his opinion (unsupported though it was), which EVDRIVER says is not being censored. What was being done by locking that thread, if not that? Odds are Ed would have been the only person posting to it, at least until there was some actual evidence supporting his claim, and people could have ignored it or not as they chose.
jlv wrote:finman100 wrote:Yay! **** u
(Moderator Edited)
I reported this message and hoped it would removed, not edited to "****". I don't think such an insult is appropriate conduct in the forum.
Indeed. I've reported a fair number of such posts invariably made by just a few members, with no mod action taken AFAICT, nor did they ever get back to me as the report function says they will. I've always thought that replacing letters with grammatical symbols was silly, as everyone just mentally replaces the letters - it's not as if anyone doesn't know what the words are, so who's being fooled? It's the adult equivalent of a child thinking that if they close their eyes it makes them invisible. Would it be acceptable to write "Intercourse you", when the meaning and intent is the same, or would I*^$#$&@+e Y&u be OK? Or is it that full words are out, but abbreviations and acronyms are acceptable, like FU or perhaps FOAD? ISTR seeing both used by posters in this forum to Ed with nary a reaction from mods. Is there anyone here who's unable to interpret their meaning? This is silly.
The issue is the ad hominem attack, not the specific way it's expressed, and let's not pretend that there aren't occasions where profanity/obscenity has legitimate uses, whether quoting or merely to express the full flavor of an opinion.
Re banning and blocking, Ed was certainly stopped from posting his opinion re what he claims (with no statistical data to back it up, as he himself admist is both lacking and necessary) is a high level of injury to Tesla occupants in accidents. I chided him about starting such a thread based on no evidence beyond anecdotal accounts, and IMO EVDRIVER accurately described Ed's motivation for doing so as "agenda biased". But that doesn't justify locking that thread, as Ed was just stating his opinion (unsupported though it was), which EVDRIVER says is not being censored. What was being done by locking that thread, if not that? Odds are Ed would have been the only person posting to it, at least until there was some actual evidence supporting his claim, and people could have ignored it or not as they chose.
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Looking at certified pre-owned 2015 Leaf
by pipestem (Posted Fri, 06 Jul 2018 17:54:45 GMT+7)
Get a Leaf. I have the 15 and it works great. That does seem high $, I would look around. This one at Carvana is $13000 with 12k miles. According to the window sticker it has the quick charge package. https://www.carvana.com/search/20001250 ... chback-4d-
Get a Leaf. I have the 15 and it works great. That does seem high $, I would look around. This one at Carvana is $13000 with 12k miles. According to the window sticker it has the quick charge package. https://www.carvana.com/search/20001250 ... chback-4d-
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Nissan's LEAF to Home Power Control System V2H PCS
by DVMDSC (Posted Fri, 06 Jul 2018 19:37:28 GMT+7)
I have imported a Japanese version Nissan Leaf 2012/7. The EVSE that came with it worked well on our grid (between L1 and L2 = 250 Volts)
It charges with 7.5 kW and fills the battery up in less than 4 hours. I made an adaption: Inside in the EVSE is a small 200/20 volts transformer that I replaced with (2 X125V/10 Volt AC - recovered out of power supply adapters) 250/20 Volts.
I am very interested in V2H. Especially a cheap version of it.
These are the possibilities I examine:
[b]Charging the Leaf with sunshine[/b]: this is no problem to do it when enough power is generated by the Grid tie inverting system.
I use the EVSE but 7.5 kW is not available, since I have only 5 kW panels installed.
I brought the 250 volt down with a step down transformer and got the EVSE power down to 2.5 kW.
This transformer is bulky and makes too much noise (but I had it)
What I recommend as my best buy since years is the ZENCAR EVSE - a Chinese equivalent that has different power options.
I have a choice of 6, 10, 16, 20 and 24 amps with the swipe of a little (magnetic) card. It has a nice (but) small display that gives you:
The setting (see above) - the real current in use, the power in use kW, the line voltage, the time you are charging and how much kWh the process has taken to charge your battery.
But V2H??
Nichocon sells a system in Japan - (but 200 Volts)
You need a transformer for the whole power pack (200 to 120 +120 V)
and as I heard about $16,000.00 for the V2H (bi directional)
SETEC Shenzen (good references) China sells a inverter (but no split phase) in a box with 2 120 Volts outlets (120 V version)
3500 Watts
It comes with a Chademo plug and cable ( worth about $1000.00)
The inverter with Chademo protocol total price is $3,500.00
They are willing to develop a split phase for us.
Same price for 3.500 Watts
And $6,000.00 for a 6000 Watts version.
Combining this with a grid tie inverter ( with power controller- net meter ) that uses the V2H as pilot the problem could be solved if only
the Chademo AND the J1772 could work the battery at the same time.
This makes a standby generator that can reload the Leaf battery the next day if the grid power keeps on failing (as with hurricane damage)
Keeping the 300 Volt DC open (but can be close to 400 V DC too) may work but the easy EVSE charging NOT at the same time, unless we cheat
on the leaf charger protocol.
A different option could be a bypass on the battery - not without risk - and work with a UPS type 300 Volt DC OFF grid inverter.
Feeding the high battery voltage e.g. to the solar input of a grid tie inverter (need to be adapted) and a zero feed in system makes the leaf
power your house at night too. The generator replacement, however is not possible without grid.
To use the battery of the Leaf - is it woth it? - Li ion batteries are getting cheaper too- and 48 or 96 Volts battery systems have easy to find off grid inverters and MPPT solar chargers.
The voltage is way off from what the Leaf has to offer but there is not a lot on the market that operates from 300- 400 VDC
These are my conclusions. Discussions appreciated.
A 12 Volts inverter from the Leaf (house) battery is also a solution for lesser loads.
Experience with this? The battery is rather small (but is getting charged - (bucked) from the Li-ion battery.
I have imported a Japanese version Nissan Leaf 2012/7. The EVSE that came with it worked well on our grid (between L1 and L2 = 250 Volts)
It charges with 7.5 kW and fills the battery up in less than 4 hours. I made an adaption: Inside in the EVSE is a small 200/20 volts transformer that I replaced with (2 X125V/10 Volt AC - recovered out of power supply adapters) 250/20 Volts.
I am very interested in V2H. Especially a cheap version of it.
These are the possibilities I examine:
[b]Charging the Leaf with sunshine[/b]: this is no problem to do it when enough power is generated by the Grid tie inverting system.
I use the EVSE but 7.5 kW is not available, since I have only 5 kW panels installed.
I brought the 250 volt down with a step down transformer and got the EVSE power down to 2.5 kW.
This transformer is bulky and makes too much noise (but I had it)
What I recommend as my best buy since years is the ZENCAR EVSE - a Chinese equivalent that has different power options.
I have a choice of 6, 10, 16, 20 and 24 amps with the swipe of a little (magnetic) card. It has a nice (but) small display that gives you:
The setting (see above) - the real current in use, the power in use kW, the line voltage, the time you are charging and how much kWh the process has taken to charge your battery.
But V2H??
Nichocon sells a system in Japan - (but 200 Volts)
You need a transformer for the whole power pack (200 to 120 +120 V)
and as I heard about $16,000.00 for the V2H (bi directional)
SETEC Shenzen (good references) China sells a inverter (but no split phase) in a box with 2 120 Volts outlets (120 V version)
3500 Watts
It comes with a Chademo plug and cable ( worth about $1000.00)
The inverter with Chademo protocol total price is $3,500.00
They are willing to develop a split phase for us.
Same price for 3.500 Watts
And $6,000.00 for a 6000 Watts version.
Combining this with a grid tie inverter ( with power controller- net meter ) that uses the V2H as pilot the problem could be solved if only
the Chademo AND the J1772 could work the battery at the same time.
This makes a standby generator that can reload the Leaf battery the next day if the grid power keeps on failing (as with hurricane damage)
Keeping the 300 Volt DC open (but can be close to 400 V DC too) may work but the easy EVSE charging NOT at the same time, unless we cheat
on the leaf charger protocol.
A different option could be a bypass on the battery - not without risk - and work with a UPS type 300 Volt DC OFF grid inverter.
Feeding the high battery voltage e.g. to the solar input of a grid tie inverter (need to be adapted) and a zero feed in system makes the leaf
power your house at night too. The generator replacement, however is not possible without grid.
To use the battery of the Leaf - is it woth it? - Li ion batteries are getting cheaper too- and 48 or 96 Volts battery systems have easy to find off grid inverters and MPPT solar chargers.
The voltage is way off from what the Leaf has to offer but there is not a lot on the market that operates from 300- 400 VDC
These are my conclusions. Discussions appreciated.
A 12 Volts inverter from the Leaf (house) battery is also a solution for lesser loads.
Experience with this? The battery is rather small (but is getting charged - (bucked) from the Li-ion battery.
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2019 Leaf
by kennethbokor (Posted Fri, 06 Jul 2018 19:40:32 GMT+7)
Yes here is link to article.
https://electrek.co/2018/07/06/nissan-l ... -charging/
Hope it is real.
Yes here is link to article.
https://electrek.co/2018/07/06/nissan-l ... -charging/
Hope it is real.
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I made a transparent CAN bus bridge with logging, requesting input
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Buy Here Pay Here used car lots: visicous cycle: sign, drive, default, repossess and resell
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randomly won't start
by cwerdna (Posted Fri, 06 Jul 2018 23:42:45 GMT+7)
^^^
Awesome. Good to know.
Side note: If you had the TCU upgraded to 3G, some folks have reported 12 volt excessive drainage, as a result: viewtopic.php?p=514520#p514520 (skim from there forward, looking for battery).
Supposedly, there's a new TSB or service campaign that will resolve this (came out in the last few weeks) but I don't have the NTB number.![:(]( "Sad")
Long ago, there were reports of engineers being flown from Singapore to investigate: viewtopic.php?f=30&t=12448&p=497352&hilit=singapore+engineers#p497352. At the time, from what I could tell (posted at viewtopic.php?p=516453#p516453) there weren't even Leafs in Singapore yet. (https://newsroom.nissan-global.com/rele ... nd-oceania from 2018 says it'll go on sale in Singapore + some other Asian markets during the next fiscal year.)
I saw 0 EVs in the few days I was in Singapore, not even any Teslas. So, it seems likely that if the engineers were in Singapore, they weren't able to properly dogfood their own creation.
The original 12 volt on my 5/2013 built used '13 Leaf bit the dust around Oct 2015 (IIRC) and was replaced for free under warranty by my local dealer.
^^^
Awesome. Good to know.
Side note: If you had the TCU upgraded to 3G, some folks have reported 12 volt excessive drainage, as a result: viewtopic.php?p=514520#p514520 (skim from there forward, looking for battery).
Supposedly, there's a new TSB or service campaign that will resolve this (came out in the last few weeks) but I don't have the NTB number.
Long ago, there were reports of engineers being flown from Singapore to investigate: viewtopic.php?f=30&t=12448&p=497352&hilit=singapore+engineers#p497352. At the time, from what I could tell (posted at viewtopic.php?p=516453#p516453) there weren't even Leafs in Singapore yet. (https://newsroom.nissan-global.com/rele ... nd-oceania from 2018 says it'll go on sale in Singapore + some other Asian markets during the next fiscal year.)
I saw 0 EVs in the few days I was in Singapore, not even any Teslas. So, it seems likely that if the engineers were in Singapore, they weren't able to properly dogfood their own creation.
The original 12 volt on my 5/2013 built used '13 Leaf bit the dust around Oct 2015 (IIRC) and was replaced for free under warranty by my local dealer.
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Nissan issues software update to solve 30 kwh battery issues
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Coldest Climates? What to expect...
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Nissan EVSE J1772 cable wire gauge?
by jjeff (Posted Sat, 07 Jul 2018 05:58:32 GMT+7)
It was 2015 model year that Nissan cheaped out and switched to 14 gauge wire(note not as bad as some other mfgs. that use 16g J1772 wire!) but none the less doing so EVSEupgrade was no longer able to make the upgrade to 20a but had to max out at 16a(maximum rating for 14g wire). Note 16g wire is capable of 12a or what some EVSEs top out at but due to heat loss, the smaller the gauge(even if still within the maximum limits) the less efficient it is. Personally, I don't want to waste electricity heating up the already too warm earth![:(]( "Sad")
http://evseupgrade.com/?main_page=index ... v5si1snio7
It was 2015 model year that Nissan cheaped out and switched to 14 gauge wire(note not as bad as some other mfgs. that use 16g J1772 wire!) but none the less doing so EVSEupgrade was no longer able to make the upgrade to 20a but had to max out at 16a(maximum rating for 14g wire). Note 16g wire is capable of 12a or what some EVSEs top out at but due to heat loss, the smaller the gauge(even if still within the maximum limits) the less efficient it is. Personally, I don't want to waste electricity heating up the already too warm earth
http://evseupgrade.com/?main_page=index ... v5si1snio7
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Removing Goop Bottle from Tire Repair Kit
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Range of two LEAFs very different in same 30 mile route
by Marktm (Posted Sat, 07 Jul 2018 07:48:46 GMT+7)
Reg:
Did the calcs using the LeafSpy screen shot date with the following results (used LeafSpy numbers rather than a measured total pack voltage) :
Judgement value = 3.5595
Min cell voltage = 3.542
No DTC set => the calcs indicate bad cells/module needs replacement?
Are there other factors that are considered such as battery SOC, average battery voltage levels - or others? Seems I remember that the test can only be run a higher SOC conditions of the battery.
Wondering if I missed something or misinterpreted the CVLI process/calc ?
3.851V
Cell voltage loss judgment value = 3.851V - (3.861V - 3.851V) x 1.5 = 3.836V
Reg:
Did the calcs using the LeafSpy screen shot date with the following results (used LeafSpy numbers rather than a measured total pack voltage) :
Judgement value = 3.5595
Min cell voltage = 3.542
No DTC set => the calcs indicate bad cells/module needs replacement?
Are there other factors that are considered such as battery SOC, average battery voltage levels - or others? Seems I remember that the test can only be run a higher SOC conditions of the battery.
Wondering if I missed something or misinterpreted the CVLI process/calc ?
You are using LeafSpy instead of CONSULT and your MINIMUM CELL VOLTAGE is *exactly* 3,712 mV, so I will not type step 2 showing how to lower the voltage using the heater.RegGuheert wrote:1. PERFORM CELL VOLTAGE LOSS INSPECTION
With CONSULT
a. Select "DATA MONITOR" OF "HV BAT."
b. Check "MINIMUM CELL VOLTAGE."
Is "MINIMUM CELL VOLTAGE" 3,712 mV or less?
YES >> GO TO 3.
NO >> GO TO 2.
Of course, LeafSpy gave you this value directly:2011 Nissan LEAF Service Manual Revision: 2011 April - Page EVB67 wrote:3. CALCULATE CELL VOLTAGE LOSS JUDGEMENT VALUE
With CONSULT
1. Check "DATA MONITOR" and record "TOTAL BATTERY VOLTAGE" and "MAXIMUM CELL VOLTAGE"
2. Calculate cell voltage loss judgment value.
Cell voltage loss judgment value = (2.5 x A - 0.144 x B) / 96
A = "TOTAL BATTERY VOLTAGE" (V)
B = "MAXIMUM CELL VOLTAGE" (mV)
NOTE:
The above equation of cell voltage loss judgment value is the simplified version of the following equation.
1. Calculate the average value of cell voltage by dividing "TOTAL BATTERY VOLTAGE" by 96 (the number of cells)
Average cell voltage = "TOTAL BATTERY VOLTAGE" / 96
3.851V
From LeafSpy, we get:2011 Nissan LEAF Service Manual Revision: 2011 April - Page EVB67 wrote:2. Calculate cell voltage loss judgment value.
Cell voltage loss judgment value = Average cell voltage - ("MAXIMUM CELL VOLTAGE - Average cell voltage) x 1.5
Cell voltage loss judgment value = 3.851V - (3.861V - 3.851V) x 1.5 = 3.836V
3.836V is significantly higher than the voltage of your cell-pair 4, which is 3.712V. This is the clearest case of a failure of this test that I have seen. [/quote]2011 Nissan LEAF Service Manual Revision: 2011 April - Page EVB67 wrote:>> GO TO 4.
4. JUDGE CELL OF VOLTAGE LOSS
With CONSULT
a. Record "CELL VOLTAGE 1-96" with "DATA MONITOR".
b. Check to see if there is "CELL VOLTAGE" which is less than or equal to the judgment value.
OK: Cell voltage loss judgment value < CELL VOLTAGE 1 - 96
NG: Cell voltage loss judgment value > CELL VOLTAGE 1 - 96
Is there a cell voltage which is the judgment value or less?
YES >> Replace module including cell voltage the judgment value or less. Refer to [EVB-153, "Exploded View"
NO >> INSPECTION END
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Center console rebooted while driving
by metzroth (Posted Sat, 07 Jul 2018 08:02:46 GMT+7)
Battery pack replaced at 2/27/2015 with 54,580 miles.
9/5/2011 to 2/27/2015 = 1271 days, lost 4 bars of life.
2/27/2015 to present = 1226 days, 0 bars lost so far.
The first leaf battery used a Cathode Spinel structure using Mn and Ni.
The new battery uses a Cathode Layer Structure of Ni, Mn, and Co.
The introduction of Cobalt and the layer structure has definitely improved battery life.
https://www.nissan-global.com/EN/TECHNO ... on_ev.html
Battery pack replaced at 2/27/2015 with 54,580 miles.
9/5/2011 to 2/27/2015 = 1271 days, lost 4 bars of life.
2/27/2015 to present = 1226 days, 0 bars lost so far.
The first leaf battery used a Cathode Spinel structure using Mn and Ni.
The new battery uses a Cathode Layer Structure of Ni, Mn, and Co.
The introduction of Cobalt and the layer structure has definitely improved battery life.
https://www.nissan-global.com/EN/TECHNO ... on_ev.html
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2018 Nissan LEAF EVSE is not working with 208v AC
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Nissan issues software update to solve 30 kwh battery issues
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