by GerryAZ (Posted Wed, 07 Feb 2018 02:41:53 GMT+7)
I am sorry for your inconvenience, but welcome to the forum. The warranty on the 12-volt battery is 3 years or 36,000 miles so the dealer will charge a high price for a replacement battery that is not a high quality unit. I recommend that you just replace the battery with a high-quality aftermarket unit rather than fighting with the dealer. I replaced the original batteries in my 2011 and 2015 with Yellow top Optima 51R batteries at my expense even though the originals both failed at less than 3 years so I could have obtained warranty replacements by scheduling visits to the dealer (the failures both happened on weekends). The Optima has much more capacity to handle residual load of the car's electronics while parked and should last a lot longer than the original.
The car charges the 12-volt battery when the traction battery is actually charging, but there is residual load drawn from the 12-volt battery when the charging cable remains connected after charging is complete. Your old 12-volt battery could not handle that residual load. The 2015 Leaf will turn on the system to charge the 12-volt battery from the traction battery when it senses that it is getting low, but the voltage of a weak 12-volt battery collapses too quickly so the system cannot activate. That is what happened in your case so a new 12-volt battery will solve your problem. I also recommend a lithium ion jumper pack (as Jeff mentioned) to carry in any vehicle. The pack I have has started motorcycles, Leafs, and V8 SUVs.
country5369 wrote:2015 Leaf S 12k mi just acquired less than a month ago from coming off lease in Alabama, January 8 2018 "FAILURE FROM AUX BATTERY"
I do not know how long it had "sat" before they shipped it to Chattanooga but I picked it up from Dealer and they said "charged" and ready to go !!!
7 days later I went and visited a friend on Dayton Mountain when a cold spell blew in and the temperature dipped to single digit 2*, Due to it being the first time to pull the mountain I left home with a full charge. I had traveled 14 miles and used 1/2 the main battery. I had brought my main trickle charger and also a motorcycle battery tender I use on my BMW gel battery due to reading such an issue might arise with the Leaf auxiliary battery.
I went to leave and the car had a dead battery symbol and no response other than dash lights came on Tuesday night January 16th 2018. I plugged the chargers in and the next morning had green symbols on the chargers but still a dead auxiliary battery symbol. It was the all day with the temperature in a single digit. The car has now been on showing full charge status from the chargers for 48 hrs and the ambient temperature of the cab finally rose to 32* on thursday January 18th in full sun about 11 am when the battery symbol went off and the Leaf operated as it should.
Nissan does not prepare you for failure in cold temperatures other than state that it will lose range. They do not express any value of the auxiliary battery with this one being a Lit-ion dieing in the cold....they do not with all there gauges give you any status of this battery other than its dead...and guess what ....the car doesn't work.....I did see the manual state a boost but this widow had no car to boost from and the Mtn has no cell or phone service...I do mean country appalachia.
I took it back to the dealer on the 22nd and they kept it for a day returning it to me saying that all checked fine and if it happened again to HAVE IT TOWED IN..........THOUSANDS IN A ALMOST NEW...LOW MILE CAR....TO HAVE TOWED IN.
when asked about the print out about the test....such as an impedance test of the battery after being in a freezer(to replicate the event) They mention they could not do it because Nissan had to approve all testing equipment.....a refrigerator freezer will shed a lot of light but no they pass it back to you.....How can a consumer get anecdote info with the dealer passing the "BUCK"?
Thanks for this thread, got a lot of good info....hopes this helps document the corporate "SLACKING" leading to us "walking" needlessly !!!!
I am sorry for your inconvenience, but welcome to the forum. The warranty on the 12-volt battery is 3 years or 36,000 miles so the dealer will charge a high price for a replacement battery that is not a high quality unit. I recommend that you just replace the battery with a high-quality aftermarket unit rather than fighting with the dealer. I replaced the original batteries in my 2011 and 2015 with Yellow top Optima 51R batteries at my expense even though the originals both failed at less than 3 years so I could have obtained warranty replacements by scheduling visits to the dealer (the failures both happened on weekends). The Optima has much more capacity to handle residual load of the car's electronics while parked and should last a lot longer than the original.
The car charges the 12-volt battery when the traction battery is actually charging, but there is residual load drawn from the 12-volt battery when the charging cable remains connected after charging is complete. Your old 12-volt battery could not handle that residual load. The 2015 Leaf will turn on the system to charge the 12-volt battery from the traction battery when it senses that it is getting low, but the voltage of a weak 12-volt battery collapses too quickly so the system cannot activate. That is what happened in your case so a new 12-volt battery will solve your problem. I also recommend a lithium ion jumper pack (as Jeff mentioned) to carry in any vehicle. The pack I have has started motorcycles, Leafs, and V8 SUVs.