by LeftieBiker (Posted Fri, 30 Dec 2016 01:18:00 GMT+7)
The one thing you wouldn't want to do is leave the car plugged in to the charging cable or charging station - that will drain the 12 volt battery. Some Leafs, especially of the 2013 era and earlier, have issues with the car not keeping the 12 volt battery properly charged. If you really want a used Leaf, here are a few suggestions:
* Save money by getting a Leaf with substantial lost capacity. Leafs built from 2011 through March of 2013 lose capacity quickly if the packs get hot, and they do it more slowly even if they don't get hot, except in a few really cool climates. If your maximum needed range is, say, 30 miles, then look for either a 2011/2012 Leaf with 2 or more lost capacity "bars" on the dash gauge, or a 2013 one or two lost bars. These are worth less for most people but should be fine for you. The 2011/2012 cars have a heater that works much more slowly and wastes power, so consider the earlier cars only if you live in a mild climate. If you have real Winters, get a 2013 or newer car. The S has just a resistance heater, while the SV and SL fom 2013 on have heat pumps as well.
* Get a Leaf S. These cars are simpler, and unless you want to be able to preheat or precool the car remotely, the decreased Winter range the S has won't matter to you. These cars are also cheaper.
* Get a brand new, deep cycle 12 volt battery for it. Something like an Optima Yellow Top. These batteries aren't as good as they once were, but are still vastly better than the OEM battery.
* Hardwire a battery maintainer lead into the charge port compartment. This would let you plug in a Battery Tender, Battery Tender JR, or similar unit easily. You could do that once a month or less with a deep-cycle battery installed.
* If you can park the car in a sunny location, consider a Leaf SL. The little solar panel on the spoiler is largely there for show, but it will add a little charge to that pesky 12 volt battery if parked for hours in full sun.
* Charge the car only as needed. The pack will hold a charge well, so it would be easier to charge it to 80 or 90% once a month, with occasional charges to Full to equalize the cells, than to charge after each 10 mile trip. Just charge it when it gets below 30% or so.
The one thing you wouldn't want to do is leave the car plugged in to the charging cable or charging station - that will drain the 12 volt battery. Some Leafs, especially of the 2013 era and earlier, have issues with the car not keeping the 12 volt battery properly charged. If you really want a used Leaf, here are a few suggestions:
* Save money by getting a Leaf with substantial lost capacity. Leafs built from 2011 through March of 2013 lose capacity quickly if the packs get hot, and they do it more slowly even if they don't get hot, except in a few really cool climates. If your maximum needed range is, say, 30 miles, then look for either a 2011/2012 Leaf with 2 or more lost capacity "bars" on the dash gauge, or a 2013 one or two lost bars. These are worth less for most people but should be fine for you. The 2011/2012 cars have a heater that works much more slowly and wastes power, so consider the earlier cars only if you live in a mild climate. If you have real Winters, get a 2013 or newer car. The S has just a resistance heater, while the SV and SL fom 2013 on have heat pumps as well.
* Get a Leaf S. These cars are simpler, and unless you want to be able to preheat or precool the car remotely, the decreased Winter range the S has won't matter to you. These cars are also cheaper.
* Get a brand new, deep cycle 12 volt battery for it. Something like an Optima Yellow Top. These batteries aren't as good as they once were, but are still vastly better than the OEM battery.
* Hardwire a battery maintainer lead into the charge port compartment. This would let you plug in a Battery Tender, Battery Tender JR, or similar unit easily. You could do that once a month or less with a deep-cycle battery installed.
* If you can park the car in a sunny location, consider a Leaf SL. The little solar panel on the spoiler is largely there for show, but it will add a little charge to that pesky 12 volt battery if parked for hours in full sun.
* Charge the car only as needed. The pack will hold a charge well, so it would be easier to charge it to 80 or 90% once a month, with occasional charges to Full to equalize the cells, than to charge after each 10 mile trip. Just charge it when it gets below 30% or so.